Cienfuegos is the most elegant and prosperous Cuban city that I visited on my trip. Especially its Punta Gorda neighbourhood – palm trees everywhere, wide streets, comfortable-looking houses, a marina. It could be Florida. A very pleasant place to wander about. I also used the city buses, which by western standards are so incredibly cheap that I even wasn’t able to change money so small. My casa owner ended up just giving me some coins. A ride costs 20 centavos in Moneda Nacional, that’s about 0,007 EUR.

The WHS area comprises the historic centre, and then mainly the Parque José Marti, the central square. It has monumental buildings on all sides. These include the iconic City Hall (former Governal Palace and now home to the regional administration), which unfortunately you cannot enter. Next to it is the Provincial Museum, worth a look for its quirkiness but like most museums in Cuba not with a strong collection or presentation. There’s the cathedral, undergoing restorations at the moment and looking much like a construction site. The fine blue turret of the Palacio de Ferrer. The center of the square holds the obligate statues and the quite small Worker’s Arch (a triumphal arch) and a bandshell.

The best sight here undoubtedly is the Teatro Tomas Terry, located on the north side of the square. It opened in 1895. From the outside, it is just one of those big neoclassical buildings that Cienfuegos has in abundance. Its interior is so lovely however. Together with Matanzas' old pharmacy, I think this is the best individual historic monument in Cuba. It has great period furnishings, like lamps, cast-iron grills, a painted ceiling, and folding seats.