When I arrived at the archaeological site of Copán at 8.15 am, a man was still busy removing the rain coverings from the statues. I had to wait for him a few times when I did my circuit. The many sculptures, statues, and stelae are the highlights of this site, so it’s worth waiting for.

There is a main trail through the forest to guide you around the site. Very little is fenced off: you are free to take side paths, climb the old stairs and discover what lies on the other side of those stones. It was still quiet of course this early in the day, and this freedom of movement only makes it easier to avoid people.

The first monumental complex you encounter is the Square of the Jaguars. From here, tunnels (closed to the public) led to the rest of the city. By climbing over a pretty ruin twisted by tree roots, you get your first look at the main plaza. Here lies the famous hieroglyphic staircase as well as the ball game court. Many stelae and other statues are dotted around the open areas. Those under shelter are originals, those without are replicas. It's a fine place to wander around or find a nice spot to sit down. You’ll hear birds (macaws) screaming at you all the time from a corner of the plaza, where they are fed.

A side path from this main plaza will lead you to Núñez Chinchilla. This is a residential area that has been excavated by a Japanese university since 2018. Tombs and monoliths of a type not seen elsewhere in Copán have been found. The other more remote component, Las Sepulturas, unfortunately was closed during my visit.

Outside of the main grounds lies the Sculpture Museum of Copán, where the most fragile sculptures have been stored, replacing the originals with replicas on the spot. It is a large building, specially made for the recreated Rosalila temple in the center area. This one is covered in red stucco, as the temples must have looked like in the past. It's just another reminder that the stony gray of ruins isn't what it used to be. The rest of the museum I found a bit disappointing, it's a shame that the findings can no longer be seen in their original spots.

In all, I spent about two hours at the ruins and half an hour at the museum. It was a nice feeling to walk among the ruins of a classical Mayan city again. Copán is not the most beautiful among the Mayan ruins, and its jungle is not as impressive as in Calakmul or Tikal. Nevertheless, it was a city of great importance and much of it can still be admired. The many statues make it similar to an Asian temple complex, a satellite city of Angkor for example.