The Dacian Frontiers of the Roman Empire comprises over 300 separate locations, so which site to visit for a representative experience? At first, I zoomed in on Potaissa, nicely located halfway between Cluj and Alba Iulia in Turda. But this site is still closed after extensive restorations; it may open up later this year. Alba Iulia itself is a sure bet but also a bit ‘boring’ as it is also a TWHS on its own and already covered by reviews. The prime Dacian-Roman archaeological site however seems to be Porolissum. It meant a 1.5-hour detour north on my itinerary, but it was worth it.

Porolissum is advertised by roadside signs already from 60km away. There isn’t much else of touristic interest in the wider area, although the Wooden Churches of the Muramures are not far away and you see fine wooden churches by the road here too. Like the Maramures, which I visited in 2010, this is a poor area where horse-and-carriages still can be seen on the road and Roma communities live in squalor.

The signposting to the site is excellent until about 100m before the entrance: I lost track and asked for the way at a souvenir shop – the site entrance turned out to be just beyond that shop, turn to the right and there is a small bump in the road which prevents you from seeing the parking and guard station. The entrance costs 11 lei and can be paid (in cash) to the guard on duty. I was the only visitor, if you discount two roe deer I found grazing among the ruins.

Porolissum was founded as a Roman fort in 106 AD and expanded into a sizeable town due to trade with the Dacians. It was the center of defense of the 200km long Limes Porolissensis, guarding the northwest of Dacia against barbarian invasions through the Carpathian mountains.

It’s a large site, a visit takes 1.5 hours at least. It consists of the walled military fort in the center and civilian structures around it. At the start of the trail, I found a ruin that had attracted my attention during preparation: the Temple of Bel. This sanctuary to the oriental god of Bel / Baal was erected by Roman soldiers who originated from Palmyra. They were stationed at Porolissum to defend open spaces of the plain, as they were specialist archers.

Via a stretch of Roman road and passing outlines of civilian structures such as a restaurant and a sarcophagus placed next to the road as was the Roman tradition, you reach the camp’s main gate “that faced the enemy”: Porta Praetoria (see main site photo). This is a full reconstruction and – according to the accompanying sign – not a very accurate one either. I also noticed that modern mortar was used a lot to help keep together the other ruined buildings.

The site has excellent information panels in Romanian and English at each point of interest. The signposting overall however is lacking, so you have to look at maps.me or take a picture of the overview map that can be found near the entrance to be sure you don’t miss a main sight. The Amphitheater (pictured) can easily be overlooked as it lies on the other side of the camp, and then downhill a bit. It had space for 5,500 spectators. It was probably used for animal fights only, as it would have been too expensive to let gladiators come all the way here.