First published: 25/05/05.

Els Slots 4.0

Haghpat And Sanahin

Haghpat and Sanahin (Inscribed)

Haghpat and Sanahin by Els Slots

These are two of the many monasteries / churches in the Debed Valley that I saw on a day trip from Vanadzor. I had rented a taxi to take me there and was transported like a royal (in the backseat of an authentic Volga). After an hour or so, our first stop was Sanahin. This monastery is situated on a hilltop in the outskirts of Alaverdi. Amidst the apartment buildings, it wasn't easy to find. Up and close however it's a fine sight in a tranquil environment. The friendly lady with the key showed us around, explaining every detail to the driver (me not understanding a word because of a huge Armenian-Dutch language barrier, both sides were used to a different lingua franca (Russian-English)). Like so many other Armenian churches, this one is also blackened inside from fires.

Haghpat monastery is on the other side of Alaverdi. It's more of a landmark than Sanahin, but I wouldn't want to choose between them. Its church holds a faded fresco of Christ above the altar. Both Haghpat and Sanahin are large complexes, that host facilities like a library, a dinner hall e.a. Khatchkars can also be found, not all in very good condition. The Haghpat complex is partly overgrown by grass and flowers, a treat to the eye in springtime.

On our way back the driver Valera invited me into his home in Alaverdi and meet his family. They were a bit surprised of course, to find a turista on their doorstep. I was fed cookies and ice cream and took a picture of the whole beaming family in return. To see how this family lives, in a crumbling Soviet-apartment block close to the huge Alaverdi mine, really was an eye-opener. Their living conditions to an outsider look saddening, but inside the four walls of the family apartment all seemed pleasant enough. Because of the hospitality I experienced here, this one has become a truly memorable visited WHS.

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