How many Chinese fit on one mountain? The record must have been broken when I visited this Saturday. I arrived at 9.15 a.m. at the Jade Screen cable car station, deliberately chosen because the Lonely Planet guidebook warns that the most popular Cloud Valley Temple Cable Car can see waiting times up to 1 or 2 hours. Well, I could join the queue just before the 'From here it's a two-hour wait to the cable car'-sign.

At the mountain itself, there wasn't much space to walk at your own pace either. I had to trundle along with the tour groups and the mostly unfit Chinese (must be all those cigarettes). Underway I passed the legendary Chinglish sign "A relaxed and happy feeling comes from the harmonious coexistence between human and nature". I didn't feel relaxed at all! And I only stayed happy because the sun was shining on a November morning and I just ate two chocolate muffins.

The landscape at Huangshan is undeniably pretty, but it's not a good visiting experience like this. Maybe the Chinese officials should consider restricting access considerably (the already heavy entrance fee obviously doesn't deter many). If you want to go there, it's probably better to stay overnight to get a more intimate feel for the site. And don't go on weekends or holidays.