I did a DIY trip to Humberstone & Santa Laura on public transport in March 2024.

The first usable bus to Humberstone leaves at 8 a.m. (with Pulman Santa Angela in a minivan, 3,000 pesos, pay to the driver). It is approximately an hour's drive to the former saltpeter quarries, which open to visitors at 9 a.m. Along the way, the road crosses spectacular high walls of sand similar to those you see on the Peruvian coast. The bus dropped me off along the highway, from where you can walk to the Humberstone site via a footbridge. Being so early, it all looked a bit spooky and deserted, and I noticed a German shepherd dog watching me from a distance.

Once I entered the gate, I found the guard and the ticket seller sitting already at their posts ready for the day. The entrance costs 6,000 pesos (6 euros) and is valid for both locations: Humberstone and Santa Laura 2km away. Someone must have been very busy beforehand also, as the site of Humberstone consists of dozens of small exhibitions housed in virtually every building still standing. So every day someone has to open and close all the locks on these doors!

When you look at Chile’s WHS it is tempting to compare Humberstone with Sewell as they are both remains from early 20th century mining areas. Their setting is very different though, the mountain landscape within an active mining area at Sewell is much more dramatic. Life for the workers at Humberstone also doesn’t seem to have been as ‘privileged’ as for those in Sewell. Until 1924, workers at Humberstone were for example forced to make their purchases at the company-owned Pulperia (shopping arcade) with tokens they earned instead of money.

As other reviewers have noticed, you will spend a lot of time at Humberstone as there are so many structures open to the public; I lasted 2.5 hours. It’s great to explore and also roam away from the main streets. Highlights for me included the Art Deco-style hotel and the swimming pool made out of (reused) bolted sheets of iron and Douglas Fir (pictured). At the former main square a souvenir shop sells drinks and ice cream, and I sat on a bench there for a while. A small group of tourists had arrived after me as had another couple, so the site seems to attract a steady trickle of visitors.

What then followed was the windy and exposed walk through the desert to Santa Laura. You can see it from far away so you won’t miss it. There’s a footpath but it isn’t much shorter or easier than the road. Only one guard is on supervision here; I met him while I wandered in the rooms of the first 'museum' and he checked my ticket. Santa Laura relies mainly on its industrial remains, the village is in ruins. It makes for good ‘industrial’ pictures but overall is less interesting than Humberstone.

For the return bus to Iquique I had to walk back to the main road where there is a bus stand right next to the Humberstone exit. Within 30 seconds a minibus from Paraiso del Norte stopped and took me back to Iquique city center. I had walked almost 10 km on the grounds of Humberstone and Santa Laura and the road between them.

Having to ‘tick’ Humberstone, you automatically end up in Iquique as well. I found it a pleasant town with great seafood, and it is well worth staying overnight.