I was here for the first time in 1990 - I have a few yellowed photos in a photo album from my first visit to the heart of Moscow. I really only remember the Lenin Mausoleum: procedures for visitors to the body / mummy were strict - lots of security at the entrance, no talking inside or standing still to take a closer look. Moscow still looked quite communist then, in the Gorbatshov-era (boring, strict, cold). Everything looked the same. On one evening, I roamed the streets for hours (after several trips with the subway), looking for my hotel that seemed to be 100% identical to all the other buildings.

29 years later, it is time for a renewed acquaintance. I am lucky today because it is the city's birthday. It became 872 years old. Actually, the date was yesterday, but they party a weekend long. Paper hats are handed out with 'Moscow 872' on it,  and you can see this logo everywhere. At the Red Square, they are busy demolishing the stands that were set up the day before for some kind of performance. So you can only get to about a third of the square. Only the endless facade of the Gum department store can still be seen clearly.

I walk past it to a new attraction in the center of Moscow: the Zaryadye Park. This has only existed since 2017. An artificial hill has been created in this park, from where you have a good view of the towers and walls of the Kremlin and of the colorful Saint Basil's Cathedral.

Nowadays you need to reserve tickets to gain access to the Kremlin: I did that about 2 weeks ago. A 'normal' ticket costs 700 rubles, more than 9 EUR. The entrance is on the 'other side' of the complex seen from Zaryadye Park, via Alexandrovsky Park. At the end of the day, I see on my pedometer on the phone that I have walked 15.2 kilometers - this detour certainly contributed to that.

Even when you have purchased a ticket in advance, you still have to exchange it on the spot at a counter for a 'real' ticket. Fortunately, it went smoothly and without queuing. But that cannot be said of the security check: there were thick and long lines at the stairs to the entrance! It turned out though that this obstacle could be overcome in 15 minutes.

The interior of the Kremlin has many political and military buildings, but the nicest corner is where a number of old churches stand together. It is relatively quiet and there are many places to sit down and let the shiny domes work on you. I only visit one church inside, the Annunciation Cathedral. It was the house church for the Moscow grand princes and has walls full of murals and a towering iconostasis.

Moscow obviously has changed a lot over the past 29 years – it feels very ‘European’ now and the bright sunny weather helped to enjoy the numerous sights in the city center.