First published: 25/07/14.

Els Slots 3.0

Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley

Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley (Inscribed)

Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley by Els Slots

This WHS can only be reached on foot: there are no roads leading into the core zone. I started from the kiosk just below the Hotel Camp del Serrat at the Lake of Engolasters (where I stayed overnight). The kiosk gives away hiking maps, and I was handed one focused on the Madriu Valley including explanations on why it’s a WHS and what’s to see. So the Andorrans must have improved on advertising their only site on the List. There still are no signs however, so you’ll have to do without souvenir pictures of yourself posing before a “Welcome to Madriu WHS” signboard.

I had chosen to do the Fontverd route, a 13km hike to the Fontverd plateau which has a refuge and a cabin. This route partly follows the red-and-white striped GR-11 long-distance path into the valley. The trail is easy to find and you do not really need a map. What I did use the map for is to look for some 'things to see' in the valley of cultural value. They are few and far between: some Orri (shepherd's huts) are shown, but all are deep into the mountains and not near to any of the easier hiking trails. So I just decided to enjoy the walk and let the surroundings surprise me.

The core zone starts from the Col Jovell, about 45 minutes into the hike and after a steep ascent. Just over the edge of this mountain ridge is the best view into the valley itself (see large photo above): until that point, it is hidden behind various forested mountains. The valley is remarkably narrow. With the zoom lens of my camera, I could spot some stone buildings in the distance. What looks like a little church actually is the 20th-century hydroelectric system, where the Madriu river provides 11% of Andorra’s electricity. The river also supplies 20% of the nation’s drinking water.

The trail into the valley is narrow and rocky. I passed terraced fields with drystone walls and some abandoned farms. The cultural link of this WHS is a thin one: it’s a good thing that this last “original” piece of Andorra is saved from commercial exploitation, but I wonder how alive the pastoral tradition really is. And the trail could do with some interpretative signs. Maybe some future reviewer with better mountain hiking skills than I have could go just a bit deeper into the valley: the next point on the trail is “La Farga” where there are remains to be seen of the early steel industry in the valley. I wonder how much of that is visible.

Just when I reached my finish at the Fontverd plateau, it started to rain. I sheltered for a while in the refuge (where you can stay overnight too). But the dark clouds kept on coming so I headed back. I took the yellow-dotted trail back to Col Jovell, this one is easier as it involves less climbing. But the effect of pouring rain on myself and the rocky path gave this excursion a tough 1h45min ending. In all it was a nice half-day walk with some fine mountain scenery, but not a brilliant WHS.

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