Essaouira is yet another fortified town along Morocco’s Atlantic Coast. And another Medina as well! For me, it didn’t stand out enough and I have given it the lowest rating of all Moroccan WHS. Essaouira also was the most touristy city of my trip: its coastline has a special appeal for surfers. It also attracts those young US Americans travelling abroad for the first time, moving around in small groups with the guys chaperoning the girls, ánd I met an Intrepid tour group following their ‘leader’ like ducklings even while having to complete the simplest of tasks.

The Morocco-for-beginners theme continues at the medina, as the one here is easier to navigate than usual: it has wide main streets and is laid out in a checkerboard plan. There are a lot of shops, cafes, and restaurants. At the far end, you’ll find the ramparts. The area around the still very active fishing port probably is the prettiest.

Essaouira in its late 18th and 19th century commercial heydays had a large Jewish population, once even up to 60% of all inhabitants were Jews. Their history and their coexistence with the Muslim population are remembered in the Bayt Dakira museum. The museum’s location isn’t actually advertised, but the same applies to the nearby Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum - it is not because Morocco is uncomfortable with its Jewish past. At Bayt Dakira, they will open the door when they see you peering inside. I found it especially interesting to see the old black-and-white photos and videos of the period that Essaouira blossomed due to the salt trade. It was nicknamed ‘the Port of Timbuktu’ (that would have been a good Epic Subtitle!). The interior of the Simon Attias Synagogue is also preserved at the museum.

The old Jewish quarter has fallen in total disrepair since almost all Jews left (mostly in the 1960s after the creation of the State of Israel). There are still numerous small synagogue buildings and Stars of David above the doors of residences. The people now living there look like squatters, even using the city walls as support for their tents.