I cannot count the number of times that I lost my way in Marrakech. And not only in the maze of the souks. Not one map seems to be able to properly display this organically grown city on paper. Especially finding the Ben Youssef madrassa proved to be too complicated for my orientation skills. Approaching from either the south or the north, I always ended up somewhere amidst the shops of the souks.

Fortunately, Marrakech has plenty of things to see so you'll end up at an interesting place anyway. Its main landmark is the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque. It dates from the 12th century but looks as if it was built yesterday (probably because of the restoration it has undergone in the 1990s). It never stops to draw one's attention, from whichever side you approach it. A major sight, that could have gotten WH status on its own merits.

More hidden from first sight are the palaces. The 19th century El Bahia palace for example gets more and more impressive with each courtyard. Especially the woodwork in the ceilings and around the doors is amazing. I was also struck by the number of tourists at the site - easily hundreds. This is December, this is Southern Morocco, and whole European families had turned this once remote and mysterious caravanserai city into their holiday break.

More of that was to come at the Saadian Tombs. A snake-shaped queue had formed in the inner courtyard. The people in it were all waiting for a glimpse of what must be the most amazing tomb of them all. I had to wait about half an hour before it was my time to have a peek. It proved worth queuing for: from floor to ceiling this whole room is covered with motifs. Mosaics on the floor, Italian marble tombs, curly stone carvings on the walls, gilded archways, and an elaborate wooden ceiling. What a place to be buried!

Two full days proved to be too short to see all of Marrakech. I even tried to do it fast forward, by using the Hop-on Hop-off bus. That way I did cross the Palmeraie, but had to skip the Menara gardens, the El Badi palace and the Musée de Marrakech. I walked and walked until my feet got sore, and I still hadn't seen all I had wanted.