I enjoyed Nalanda, probably because my expectations were low. We arrived just after 9 a.m. from Patna (2h by car on a good road, once you’ve managed your way out of the congested city center). I would suggest arriving this early as the site attracts larger numbers of daily visitors than you can imagine for an archaeological site in rural Bihar. It seems to be included in many of the group tours of the pilgrims visiting the Mahabodhi Temple, so there will be plenty of Asian groups around. Also, it’s a nicely landscaped park that attracts the locals from the nearby large city of Bihar Sharif. 

The extent of the site surprised me the most. I had mostly seen pictures of Temple 3 beforehand, and as it is the most complete it will attract your attention immediately after entering the complex. But there are many more parts worth seeing, especially among the temples. The monasteries follow a specific mould and once you’ve seen one of those, it’s enough.

Interpretation and signage at the site are very minimal, and that doesn’t help finding the more interesting spots. You’ll easily miss a side path. At first, I was pleased to see that they added QR codes for more information next to each building, but after scanning it turned out that it contained the same text as painted on the stone panels. 

A simple map plus useful explanations can be found here. Worth a closer look are:

• Monasteries #5, 4 & 1: sort of a labyrinth directly to the left and right after you cross the gated brick entrance to the complex; it provides an introduction to the way the architects of Nalanda built and used bricks.
• Temple #3: the big one with long flights of stairs and two decorative towers, but unfortunately you cannot get very close to the front and low-hanging tree branches prevent taking good pictures from the other side.
• Temple #12 (upper photo): fine brickwork surrounded by lots of stupas, not only made of brick but also stone. 
• Temple #13: on a raised platform that you can climb. Near here a smelting furnace was discovered (I missed it). 
• Temple #2: this lies outside of the brick gated area, not far from the exit/entrance into the street; its base is decorated with rows of sculpted panels fully encircling the building (lower photo).