Although Nisa is situated quite close to the Turkmen capital Ashgabat, it took the best part of the day to get there. The group first had to visit the Türkmenbashi mausoleum next to the biggest mosque in Central Asia, the second biggest mosque in Central Asia (built by Mr. T. after a visit to Mecca), the ancient battlefield of Geok Tepe and a horse farm. Without lunch, we ended up at the gate of Old Nisa around 13.30 - the only excursion of the day that I had looked forward to.

The best preparation for this visit I already had experienced the day before, when I went to the National Museum in Ashgabat. This is a very worthwhile museum in general, quite modern and with displays in English. Exhibits from Merv and Nisa feature prominently. The iconic representations of the Parthian culture from Nisa are its ivory rhytons: drink containers the size of an elephant's tusk. The museum holds a fair number of them, all with fine decorations.

The archeological site of Old Nisa itself is a rather small complex. It is strategically positioned with its back to the mountains, overlooking a flat valley. Walls and columns are mainly reconstructed, the only original parts are the outline (labyrinth-like) and some pieces half-hidden underground. A good overview of the site can be had from the viewing platform at the entrance, said to have been built for a visit by former French president Mitterand. It's not a spectacular site to visit in itself, imagine a rural Greek/Roman excavation. Inspiration or stories about the Parthians you'll have to get elsewhere, from museums or books.