On first impression, Peninsula Valdes is much alike the Patagonian mainland: a flat land full of scrubs able to withstand the strong winds, dotted with huge private sheep farms. A number of common animals have run over the isthmus too: for example, the Patagonian hares (maras), which are like giant cavies, and the speedy rheas with their chicks.

Our first real stop was at the beach where the Elephant seals live. They seemed a sleepy bunch, lazing around in the sun. Almost all of the 100 or so we saw were females or calves. One big bull was defending the beach. However, there was one moment of suspense: a younger bull casually swam along the coastline looking for a female to mate with. When he had found two laying close to the water, he decided to take his chance and quickly lugged himself up to the beach. The big bull wouldn’t have anyone touch his women though, and gave out a loud roar (without even bothering to move an inch). This message was fully understood by the younger one and he quickly retraced his ‘steps’ and went back to the sea.

The morning hadn’t started out well for the seals – a few hours before an orca had come up to the beach and grabbed one of the elephant seals. National Geographic was there at the right moment (the photographer was just leaving when we arrived), and of course, had it all on camera!

Whale Watching obviously is the highlight of anyone’s visit here. It was my first time, and I really enjoyed it. From the little town of Puerto Pirámides no less than six companies offer trips. Due to too strong winds, we had to wait until 16.30 to take off. The boatmen don’t have to navigate very far into the bay to encounter these giants. Right at the start we saw one southern right whale jumping up and down. These whales are easy to see and follow, not as difficult as dolphins for example. It’s hard to take good pictures though as the whales come to the surface for short periods only. Also, as the boats are fully loaded (a bit too much for real comfort), it’s quite hard to get in a good position and keep standing upright with your camera in hand while the boat is rocking. Most of the time we stayed with a mother with a white (albino) calf. They’re just so huge, often it is like watching a submarine.