It is still quite the day trip from Siem Reap to reach Preah Vihear Temple. We left at 5 a.m., only to arrive 3.5 hours later at the parking lot where you have to pay for the ticket (10 USD) and a 4wd truck up to the mountain (25 USD). They had a number of trucks ready: although it seems like a remote place, it does see its fair share of local visitors and a daily trickle of foreigners. My driver, the recommended Mr. Smarty, hadn’t been there since 2019.

I did not have an image of what the site would look like, so it all was a bit of a surprise. It has a very different setting from the classic Khmer sites: not in the jungle, but out in the open on a protruding rock. An 800-m-long ceremonial causeway leads up to the main sanctuary, via sets of stairs and gateways with fine carvings. Overall, it reminded me a lot of Vat Phou in Laos with its nagas and sandstone posts along the way. Preah Vihear’s particular strength lies in its size and ‘sacred mountain’-like location. Also, Vat Phou has 'turned' Buddhist while Preah Vihear still mostly shows its Hindu origins (well, except for that monk handing out blessings in the sanctuary!). 

The lower stairs and gateways are in a terrible state of repair, barely held upright with iron support beams. As with other archaeological sites in Cambodia, a lot of restoration is currently ongoing. Here they now also uncovering the ancient drainage system which ran parallel to the causeway. The prettier structures lie about halfway.

Of course, as World Heritage observers we remember Preah Vihear Temple most as one of the most disputed World Heritage Sites of the past 15 years. Although international treaties have assigned it to Cambodia, it was the scene of a military stand-off and shelling with Thailand between 2008 and 2011. Peace and quiet have now returned to the site, it is not necessary anymore to present your passport and the military guards keep a low profile. Some bullet holes can still be seen in the temple walls, as well as the pile of rubble at the back of the sanctuary which used to be the main tower.

A proper visit takes about 2 hours and, as it will be hot out there and the circuit involves a fair bit of walking, it is recommended to start with Preah Vihear before continuing to Koh Ker and/or Beng Mealea.