I was the only visitor here, having arrived already at 8.50 a.m. after a 7.30 start from Bhopal. The 250rs entry ticket has to be bought at the base of the hill, where there is also an archeological museum (which I did not visit). Then a steep uphill climb follows, fortunately I had a car to take me. There was no one to check my ticket at the gate. But I did not surprise the suddenly appearing security lady - I had to open my bag to show nothing was in it besides a bottle of water, a notebook and a pen.

The main stupa at the hilltop is definitely the most eye-catching sight here. You’ll have to come in the late afternoon however to get really great pictures of it. The stupa looks like a stupa always does, a perfect dome. Wonderful are its four sculptured gateways, they are the main reason for turning this site into a WHS. Taking their age into consideration, the quality of the sculptures is really unique.

The base of the stupa also has inscriptions of donations given by devotees – a practice that obviously predates the namedropping at western museum collections nowadays. The four gateways lead to a Buddha statue each. Although most of the on-site carvings are in perfect condition, 3 out of 4 Buddhas have their heads smashed in. Probably not a coincidence. The stupa has two ambulatories, by which I “climbed” it.

There are a number of other Buddhist monuments at this sanctuary, none of them however can rival the main Stupa. Stupa no. 3 lies next to no. 1, and is a smaller and less elaborate version of it. Stupa no.2, which is located a few 100 metres downhill from the main complex, is even simpler. On your way there you'll pass the remains of a large monastery and a giant stone begging bowl.

My site visit lasted about 80 minutes. Afterward, I went on directly to the Rock Shelters of Bhimbetka, which are located about 1.5 hours away on the other (south) side of Bhopal. In total it took me 6.5 hours to take in both WHS on the same day, so I arrived back in time at the hotel for a late lunch and an afternoon relaxing at the pool reading a book on early Indian history. A very satisfying day!