Both Stralsund and Wismar can be visited on a day trip from any of northern Germany's big cities. I choose the more remote Stralsund, located about 200 km east of Lübeck. It's an easy Autobahn ride deep into Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and close to the German-Polish border where controls were lifted earlier this week. How the world changes. Stralsund itself used to be hidden behind the Iron Curtain too.

Anno 2007 it turns out to be a pretty and well-looked-after little town. Parking and navigation is easy in the almost deserted streets. Ugly modern construction that so dominates Lübeck fortunately is lacking here. The Hanseatic and the Swedish heritage go side-by-side, brick houses and colourful residences alternate in the streets. The most impressive sights are the red brick churches adorned with huge towers.

One of these former churches now houses the 'Meeresmuseum', a museum dedicated to the sea with bits and pieces of GDR history and an aquarium. Fun for kids and a bit quirky too.

The Stralsund harbour is where the locals are taking their Sunday stroll. I finish my stay here at a fish restaurant with lunch of jacked potato and caviar.