First published: 30/06/13.

Els Slots 3.5

Studley Royal Park

Studley Royal Park (Inscribed)

Studley Royal Park by Els Slots

Before visiting a new WHS, I always read the AB evaluation to see if there are any specifics about the site that you would not gather from a “normal” guide. Although Studley’s nomination in 1986 wasn’t that early in the process, it was among the first batch of UK sites. The country actually nominated only Fountain’s Abbey and St. Mary’s Church, which ICOMOS found an odd combination to have with two buildings from totally different eras. They responded with a conditional inscription, suggesting that the 18th-century landscape gardens should be included. The result is that the focus of the WHS has shifted from the two monuments to the park, with a totally different OUV.

So now it’s a park that we visit, a huge English landscape garden with some French touches. I was the first to enter on the day and wasn’t bothered by any crowds that would show up later in the day. I followed the main walk that is described in the site’s brochure, which takes you from the Abbey along the Canal to the Water Garden and Lake. It ends at St. Mary’s Church and Deer Park. When you end up on one side of the canal, it’s quite a walk to backtrack to see something on the other side (and that’s how I missed Fountains Mill).

What I did see though was the view from Anne Boleyn’s Seat – probably the most iconic vista of Studley, as also shown by most of the reviewers below. From there I walked through the forest to the Lake, a pleasant walk but not too spectacular. After having a drink at the Tea Rooms, I went on to St. Mary’s Church. This I found to be the second highlight of this WHS – the interior is so frivolous!

I ended my visit with another hike: I had taken with me a printed copy of the “Ancient Trees Walk”. This 4km route takes in the long avenue of lime trees, which ends at the East Gate of the park and visually connects Ripon Cathedral with St. Mary’s Church. It crosses the Deer Park, where I became more interested in the deer than in the ancient trees. The deer (3 different kinds) roam around in big herds here. They are “wild” – they are not fed by humans, but are enclosed within the park’s borders. I found them a lot less skittish than normal deer, they even blocked some of the footpaths and stared at me intimidatingly.

P.S.: Besides the official website, information on Studley Royal is a bit scarce. At the site's shop, I found a small but comprehensive book by the National Trust ("Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal"), which opened up the past and present of this WHS for me.

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