I arrived in Sucre by plane from La Paz on May 25. Little did I know that it was the yearly departmental holiday. Outside of the airport I even ran into the convoy of Presidente Evo Morales, who had made a quick visit to the Bolivian capital from his seat in La Paz. Two things to remember about Sucre: they like their festivities AND they are very proud to still be the official capital of the country.

I stayed for 5 nights in total, mostly to relax a little at a lower altitude than Cuzco and La Paz (where I did not sleep well) and also to visit neighbouring sites Potosi and Cal Orck'o. It's an elegant place, indeed all buildings in the city center are bright white. Seeing the sights of Sucre itself was as problematic as described in the review below by Iain Jackson. Somehow there always was a reason not to be open: the holiday, or just erratic opening hours. I mostly stumbled upon big locks closing the doors of churches and convents.

The most reliable bet is the Casa de La Libertad. Possibly the most interesting place too, as this is where the Bolivians (led by 2 Venezuelans) declared independence. Entrance is via a guided tour only. Mine was led by a very serious guide, showing us the treasures that are so important to his country. And to neighbouring countries as well, as it also holds the first Argentinian flag (both Kirchners had been here in recent years to pay their respects).

Every day something was happening at the city's central square 25 de Mayo: religious processions carrying a statue around the square several times and accompanied by South American marching music (a bit out of tune as well, this is Bolivia), loud protests by indigenous women (wearing very fine traditional costumes, but I guessed that it was not the right moment to take a picture) and even a car rally for most of the weekend.