I had heard raving reviews about this city, but it disappointed me at first sight. There is a lot of traffic and smog, and a real town centre is hard to find.

The special thing about this city is the division between its lower and upper parts. Via early 20th century elevators, you can travel between these two worlds. Only about 7 people fit in, and it's quite scary because of the steepness of the hills.

When you arrive in the upper town, a completely different world awaits you: bright colours, artistic buildings, narrow backroads.