Southern Laos has always been pretty difficult to access. Things are changing here too, however, albeit slowly. I was happy to discover a direct flight from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam to Paksé (the main transport hub in South Laos). Lao Airlines started this only last year, and I wonder how long they will continue it as there were only 20 passengers on my flight. Paksé itself feels unbelievably quiet and slow, especially when you’ve just come from Vietnam as I did. You can easily walk in the middle of the streets in the center of the town. A brochure at the Lao Airlines described it accurately: "it's no chaos, it's Laos"!

As I had plenty of time, I decided to give it a try to get to Vat Phou by public transport. Guidebooks and internet fora could not supply me with clear directions on how to do it. So I started out early (before 7 a.m.), looking for a songthaew to Champasak. To cut a long story short: they do exist, but will go only later in the morning when the people from Champasak have finished their selling and shopping at the market of Paksé. I ended up chartering a whole songthaew, together with an Italian guy who was stuck too.

We arrived in Champasak just before 10 o’clock. I hired a bike for the remaining 8 km to Vat Phou. 10 a.m. is already pretty hot in Laos in March. Fortunately, the road is well-paved, flat and just straight ahead. Vat Phou is a large complex. There’s an archeological museum at the entrance. Some lingam are shown here, and other objects are found at the Vat. It’s just one room, not very spectacular. Then it’s a couple of hundred meters more to the archeological complex. I could take my bike with me (buses also go there). It all is in the open field, with very little shade.

The complex is made out of 3 parts: one lower, one middle, and one high. The parts are connected by steps – many steps, steep steps, sometimes dangerous steps. You’ll pass redheaded tourists taking a break on stones by the side of the stairs. And we all endure this to get to the highest point, the ceremonial complex. But the lower area I found more impressive: the old processional walkway, with great views of the linga-shaped Phou Kao mountain and the frangipani that surround the stairs going upwards.

And then I had to get back to Paksé. This is where all of the guidebook directions go silent. The answer is: there is no public transport from Champasak to Paksé in the afternoon. At least, no one was able to point it out to me. I asked around in a number of guesthouses, but all that they came up with was “early tomorrow morning”. So I had to improvise a ride back. I planned to just stand by the side of the road in the right direction, and just try every passing vehicle. Fortunately, I did not have to – I walked into one more restaurant to ask for transport to Paksé, and found a driver and a guide who were just “delivering” their 2 guests to a boat. They had to return empty to Paksé, and were all too happy to take me along (for a little money of course). In hindsight, I think it’s best to stay overnight in Champasak, and head for Vat Phou early in the morning. It’s an atmospheric site.