I visited Copán during my trip to Guatemala in November and December 2021. I had opted for the town of Chiquimula as my base for visiting the site. Buses serve it from Guatemala City. Minibuses leave from the city for the border of El Florido. From there, additional minibuses go to the town of Copán Ruinas. From the city, it is easy to reach the ruins on foot.

When I arrived at the site, I was quite surprised to find that the gate was locked and that the site was closed. I had changed my itinerary during the trip (I didn't go to El Salvador as planned) and found myself in Copán earlier than scheduled. I had not made sure that the site would be open that day and it was not (the site closes on Mondays for maintenance). I walked a little further hoping to find another entrance, but nothing. When I came back, a site official was talking to two backpackers through the gate, explaining what I had just learned. He did, however, offer them a guided tour of the site. He explained that this was the only way to visit the site during the maintenance days. Although the other two backpackers refused to share the cost of the guide, I opted for the tour anyway. It saved me from having to come all the way back the next day. I wasn't going to give up this site so easily.

In the end, this tour is clearly a way for the maintenance staff to make a few extra bucks under the table. It was notably impossible for me to get a ticket to the site or an invoice since it was officially closed. My guide was nevertheless very skilled, knowledgeable and pleasant (he would have even pointed out the location of several treasures to the archaeologists and explained large chunks of Mayan life, but I guess you have to take some and leave some). We first went through the reception pavilion where I waited for him for a few minutes while looking at the UNESCO plaque and the model of the site. We then moved on to the entrance itself. Surprisingly, a man was stationed at the entrance to check visitors' tickets. My guide explained the situation to him and we went through. This is the easiest place to see scarlet macaws and other birds.

As for the ruins, several sculptures were protected by tarps. They cover the sculptures every evening to protect them from the night rains. They normally remove the tarpaulins before the visitors arrive. Also, some stelae are covered with a small roof or protective structure, while others are not. The ones that are protected are the original ones. Our visit took us to the Patio Occidental (note the Stela P and the Altar Q decorated with all the kings of Copán), from where we climbed to El Cementario and the Patio Oriental (Patio de los Jaguares). The huge trees growing on the ruins, the abundant vegetation and the rugged terrain of this section of the ruins give it a pleasant lost world atmosphere.

The rest of the site is laid out towards the Plaza Central. There is a succession of stelae, each more richly decorated than the next. Stela N is exceptional. However, it is quickly overshadowed by the most remarkable masterpiece of the site, the hieroglyphic staircase. This 63-step staircase dates from 743 and tells the story of the Copán royal family. Next door, the ball game is the second largest in Central America and is decorated with macaw heads. We then finished the visit by walking around the other stelae, surrounded by men busy cutting and collecting grass. The museum and other secluded areas remained closed for me on this late-November Monday. After a lunch in town, I took the two minibuses back to Chiquimula.

All in all, Copán is a remarkable site. Although its size and structures are modest, the artistic qualities of the structures are exceptional. I spent a little more than two hours there with my improvised guide and I was definitely not bored. The lesson of the story, however, is to always check the opening hours to avoid hitting your nose on a closed door or having to pay exorbitant amounts for impromptu guides.