Oaxaca, the capital and largest city of the eponymous state, has a remarkable colonial centre. I spent six days in this region in March 2019, often using the city as a base camp for excursions to the surrounding area.

The colonial centre is noteworthy for its rectilinear urban plan and massive cantera stone architecture. The Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución), one of the few tree-lined areas in the centre, is particularly lively and very pleasant. It is bordered to the north by the gigantic Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca. The current building, dating from 1733, has a stunning Baroque façade, but a rather banal interior. A little to the north on the pedestrian Calle Macedonio Alcalá, lies the breathtaking Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, one of the most beautiful churches I have visited in Mexico (photo). Exuberant bas-reliefs cover the walls and ceilings, notably illustrating the Dominican family tree. It is a true Baroque masterpiece. The last remarkable church, located west of the Zócalo on Avenida de la Independencia, is worth a visit. The Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, completed in 1690, is also in Baroque style.

I used the next four days to visit the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Valley and the Prehistoric caves of Yagul and Mitla in the Central Valley of Oaxaca. I opted for an ecotourism company based in Oaxaca for the first one, whereas the Central Valley is easy to visit on your own. We not only strolled through Yagul, but also visited Mitla and Hierve el Agua. A diversion to the Árbol del Tule occupied our last afternoon, after an early morning visit to Monte Albán.

This important Zapotec archaeological site is the centrepiece of this WHS. It is located just a few minutes from the centre of Oaxaca, on the top of a flattened hill. The Mesoamerican peoples demonstrated their mastery of urban planning, civil engineering and military engineering on many of their ruins, but few evoke their greatness as much as Monte Albán. The fact that the mountain on which the city is situated was artificially levelled to allow its construction is very impressive. All the more so as this location offered a 360-degree view of the surrounding valleys, making its defence easy and its capture by the enemy unlikely. The site features a ball game and countless pyramids and platforms (although they are smaller in size than those of other sites). The condition and state of conservation of most of the structures appeared to me to be excellent, notably by the presence of decorative elements and bas-reliefs. The Plataformas Norte and Sur, on both sides of the Gran Plaza, offer the best perspectives on the extent of these ruins.

Logistically, Oaxaca is a practical stopover between Mexico City and San Christobal de las Casas and Chiapas. Connections also exist from Puebla, where I came from. Although there is no WHS there, the city is also the gateway to the state's coast, its mountains and natural parks and the seaside resorts on the Pacific. Autobuses Turísticos (Mina 501) provides frequent service for Monte Albán from Oaxaca.