I visited Paraty and Ilha Grande in March 2024, en route between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. The Costa Verde bus first took me from Rio to Conceição de Jacareí. From there, numerous excursion boats and water taxis leave for Ilha Grande at a frequency and schedule that eluded me. I had to wait just over an hour and a half for mine to fill up and we finally set sail for a short 15-minute crossing. I got off at Abraão, where I spent the night. As the weather was grey and gloomy, I gave up the beach visits and snorkelling excursions in favour of hiking. From the western end of the beach, a path leads to the Cachoeira da Feiticeira waterfall. This path enters the Parque Estadual da Ilha Grande and thus the core zone of the WHS, as the island's tourist village is not itself part of it. As well as the pretty waterfall, the trail takes in a few viewpoints, some fine beaches and the photogenic ruins of an aqueduct. Keep your eyes peeled for the magnificent swallow-tailed manakin, but also watch where you step, as the path is loamy and very slippery. I spent the rest of my afternoon on the island walking on the beach and drinking caipirinhas in the shade of the palm trees.

The next day, I took the public ferry (which is much cheaper, but also less frequent) to Angra dos Reis (an 80-minute crossing). From there, I was able to catch an intercity bus to Paraty. I got my first glimpse of the town's magnificent mansions in the early evening, then joined a free walking tour. The very interesting guide explained the history of the city and showed us the main places of interest. The historic houses decorated with Masonic symbols looked particularly pretty in the light of the setting sun. As this was Easter Thursday, I had heard that the town was due to come alive with a procession at midnight to mark the start of Good Friday. However, tiredness and downpours got the better of my motivation to return to the city and I stayed in my hotel.

The next day, Good Friday, I took the time to visit the city again, but this time in daylight. I was really charmed by Paraty. I think it's the prettiest colonial town I visited in the winter of 2024 in Colombia and Brazil. I loved the cobbled streets flooded by the tides and populated by little fiddler crabs. I loved the splashes of colour and geometric patterns in the otherwise immaculate white historic houses decorated with pineapples. I also loved the religious art to be found throughout the city, whether on the architecture of the churches, in the free sacred art museum (Museu de Arte Sacra de Paraty) or in the six paintings illustrating the Passion of Christ, known as the Passos. These paintings adorn public and private buildings and remain hidden behind doors all year round, only to be revealed on Good Friday. After exploring the city once again, I headed for a third component of this WHS, the Museu Forte Defensor Perpétuo on the Morro da Vila Velha. There's a small museum and a few cannons, but this place is the weakest component of the whole property. I then walked along a nearby beach and spent the rest of the day in the pool at my hostel, until the spectacular Good Friday mass in the evening. I really enjoyed this religious experience, with the singing, the re-enactment of the crucifixion of Jesus and the procession, which unfortunately had to stay indoors as it was still pouring with rain.

On my last day in Paraty, I took advantage of the splendid weather to take a boat trip to visit the beaches in the region and do some snorkelling. There are a bunch of companies offering pretty much the same thing in the historic centre of Paraty (I went with Netuno and their six-stop speed boat excursion). A few of the beaches covered by the tour I chose are part of the Environmental Protection Area of Cairuçu, therefore making a visit to a fourth component of this WHS. These beaches are very pretty and the waters are clear and full of fish, but I don't think they're particularly unique. Back in Paraty, I took an overnight bus to São Paulo.

All in all, Paraty is a magical little town, especially during Holy Week, when its inhabitants reveal its treasures and enliven it with their processions. The second cultural component, the fort, is much weaker. On the natural side, the protected areas are definitely pleasant, but didn't strike me as extraordinary or unique. Nevertheless, I'm not opposed to the site being listed on mixed criteria.