
I am afraid that this review will bring very little new information, as I visited the same two monasteries as most of the previous reviewers, la Catedral de Cuernavaca and Tepoztlán Ex Convento Dominico de la Natividad. These two sites offered an interesting perspective on the beginnings of the evangelization of indigenous peoples in Mexico, but the September 2017 earthquake in the state of Puebla affected my appreciation of the sites. Indeed, although I visited the monasteries in March 2019, almost a year and a half after the earthquake, the damage had still not been repaired and the interior of the monasteries was inaccessible.
I first visited Tepoztlán, where the monastery is clearly visible from all over the city. Its size is imposing, its walls are high and bear merlons, which makes it look more like a military fort or a castle than a place of worship. This reflects the situation when religious congregations were involved in the invasion and domination of the Auochtone communities and had to protect themselves from them. Unfortunately, the earthquake seems to have been stronger than the monastery. In 2019, the two towers (one of which had visible cracks) were supported by wooden frameworks, a tin roof covered the monastery and the access to the convent was fenced off. Only a shop and a few rooms with faded frescoes were accessible from the left side of the building.
The situation was similar in Cuernavaca. El Recinto de la Catedral, although more ornate and artistically richer (think of the two pretty chapels lining the access to the atrium), has the same aspect of defensive structure as the monastery (high walls crowned with merlons, solid appearance). However, it also seems to have encountered a stronger enemy during the earthquake. In 2019, the bell tower was supported by scaffolding and access to the interior was impossible. Tents and chairs had been set up outside to allow people to attend mass. An ironic return to the Capilla abierta...
Although Nan and Jay T's reviews were written after my visit, I wonder when their respective visits were made. Since they do not mention the damage and inconveniences I encountered, it would be interesting to know if the restoration work has been completed and if these centuries-old structures have regained their former charm.
Logistically, I reached Tepoztlán from the Terminal Sur in Mexico City and spent two nights there. It was more than enough to see all the attractions of the city and get some rest. The hike to the Pirámide de Tepozteco was well worth the effort, especially for the view of the city, which made me even more aware of the imposing size of the monastery and its central position. Cuernavaca is also a pleasant city with bus connections to Tepoztlán and Mexico City. It is easy to base yourself there to visit Xochicalco. The Cascada El Salto de San Antón is an interesting attraction off the beaten track. I also spent two nights there before going to Taxco.
More on
Comments
No comments yet.