First published: 23/09/23.

Frédéric M 2.0

Red Bay Basque Whaling Station

Red Bay Basque Whaling Station (Inscribed)

Red Bay Basque Whaling Station by Frédéric M

I visited Red Bay in July 2023 on a family camping trip to Newfoundland and Labrador. We began our visit at the interpretive center right on the waterside. The history of the Basques and their whaling in this area is well presented and documented. Many interesting artifacts are on display (including clothing, boat parts and crockery) and contribute to the exhibition. It's worth noting that most of the archaeological remains of Red Bay's economic activity are at the bottom of the bay, having been carefully returned there after discovery, inventory, and study.

A shuttle boat runs (now for free) every hour between the interpretation center and Saddle Island. A well-marked trail dotted with information panels circles the island. It's possible to visit it independently or with a Park Canada guide-interpreter. Since my mother doesn't understand English, we opted for the first option. It takes about an hour to walk the entire trail, taking the time to read all the signs and take photos, which allows you to return just in time to catch the next shuttle. It's nice to walk around the island and tread the ground where the Basques processed whale blubber, but there's very little evidence of this activity. We can only guess at the shape of ancient furnaces in the grass of the island. It's instructive, but not very impressive. A much more recent wreck catches the eye.

It should be noted that the most interesting archaeological piece preserved out of the water, a small chalupa over 400 years old found under the wreck preserved in Red Bay, is in the other interpretation centre, located up the hill near the church. At the time of our visit, it was closed, but it is possible to ask a Parks Canada guide to open the building for visitors to see the ship. All the exhibitions and services should be moved to this newly renovated building in the next few years.

We rounded off the visit with a hike on the Tracey Hill trail, on the west side of the bay. It's a long climb on boardwalks and steps. The hill offers an exceptional view of the bay, the island, the village, and the icebergs in the distance (even on 30 July!). A fork in the path leads to Boney Shore, where the Basques left an extraordinary quantity of whale bones. However, according to the Park Canada guide, shortly before the site was protected by UNESCO, all the local artists, sculptors, jewellers and looters would have rushed to the beach to collect the bones. So now only a handful remain, scattered in the tall grass.

On a final note, Red Bay is a very interesting site, with a rich history and many artefacts, but very few of which can be seen in situ. The bucolic landscape and the hike up Tracey Hill are the highlights. And I can confirm what Els said: the fish and chips and bakeapple tartlets in the restaurant just outside the interpretation centre are a treat!

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