I visited Tak'alik Ab'aj during a trip to Guatemala in November 2021, my first trip abroad after the Covid-19 outbreak. I chose to visit this archaeological site on a day trip from Panajachel, a good choice as a base for visiting the Lake Atitlan TWHS. After numerous visits to travel agencies in town, I finally found someone who could take me there at an affordable price, and I was off the next day for the visit.

Only one other car was in the parking lot when we arrived. Several guides were also waiting at the entrance to accompany visitors. One of them was assigned to me free of charge. I had understood at the time that it was compulsory to be accompanied by a guide, but this was probably a misunderstanding on my part since Els was able to visit the site independently a few months later. Nevertheless, I was very happy to be accompanied by this friendly guide. He was able to provide all the information needed to visit this rather unremarkable site.

Indeed, you won't find any grandiose pyramids or finely decorated stelae here. The platforms are low and the sculptures rough and weathered. The latter, however, are the most interesting, and demonstrate the blend of Olmec and Mayan cultures that was put forward in the site's nomination dossier. Indeed, the Olmec sculptures here have been altered to match the beliefs of the Maya who subsequently occupied the site. In addition to the potbelly statues described by Els (see the picture in her review), perhaps the most interesting are a series of sculptures at the foot of a platform featuring crocodiles, toads, and jaguars with a man in their mouth (pictured here).

The setting is very pleasant. Many birds can be found on the site. I was able to walk freely through the ruins after the guided tour to look for them. I observed 23 species, including white-bellied chachalaca, white-fronted amazon, Pacific parakeet, white-throated magpie-jay, rufous-backed wren, and yellow-winged tanager. There's also a sad little zoo with felines, monkeys, peccaries, and caimans. If you're ever in the area, I also recommend a visit to the church of San Andrés Xecul. Its richly decorated yellow façade is magnificent! After this stop, my driver took me back to the shores of Lake Atitlan.