I visited Umm Al-Jimāl during my trip to Jordan and Egypt in the winter of 2025. Since I decided not to rent a car in Jordan, I had to find an alternative solution to reach the sites on the outskirts of Amman. So I hired a driver from the Black Iris Hotel in Madaba. Recommended by Lonely Planet, it was the place where I got the best price, and I can confirm that the service was excellent. We therefore left Madaba early and my driver took me to Qasr Kharana, Qusayr 'Amra, Azraq Wetland Reserve, Qasr al-Azraq, and Umm Al-Jimāl, before finally dropping me off in Amman.

The archaeological sites in Jordan are generally very well laid out and very easy to visit. Umm Al-Jimāl is no exception. The receptionists looked at my Jordan Pass (although entry is free) and then handed me a magnificent map of the site detailing some thirty points of interest and an itinerary to follow (available in this reference). I began my visit in the small museum. It explains the history of the site and displays a few artifacts in reconstructed traditional houses. Umm Al-Jimāl is not a grandiose site having been of capital importance in the region's history. The monuments are not stunning. However, it is a provincial town with traditional black basalt stone architecture whose ruins have survived the passage of time well.

The best thing about Umm Al-Jimāl is that you can walk around it like an archaeologist. Fascinating details are revealed only to those who enter the buildings that are still standing, or to those who climb the stone of those that have collapsed. Let the Indiana Jones in you go and explore these ruins! The sheer size of the site is impressive. I spent over two hours there, and didn't survey the northern half of the site. The most interesting buildings are the Houses XVII-XVIII, the Roman Reservoir, the West Church, the Praetorium, and the Barracks. The interpretation points highlighting the ingenious construction techniques using black basalt stones are extremely interesting. Visiting Umm Al-Jimāl won't transform your existence and you still have to appreciate the piles of rocks to find the site interesting, but you'll have a good time if you approach it with a healthy curiosity and an adventurous spirit.