We spent four days and four nights in Yogyakarta in February 2023. We arrived in the evening, having spent the day on trains from Bogor (Kebun Raya Bogor TWHS).

Our first day was spent visiting the Kraton complex and the surrounding area. We got in just on time for an impressive traditional percussion show. Their music is captivating and quite unique. This was followed by a boring puppet show that we didn't watch until the end. The Kraton is very large and rather pretty. However, it's a little difficult to understand what you're visiting, as there's very little interpretation. There is a museum on site, but it's only in Indonesian and seems to focus more on the life of the sultan (they even display his kitchen utensils), than on Javanese architecture.

As we exited the Kraton from the rear, we were approached by a woman. She led us to a traditional puppet workshop. These are hand-cut in intricate patterns from thick leather, then painted. The result is a magnificent work of art. She then led us to a batik workshop. These traditional paintings on fabric are also magnificent and delighted my friend. After another stop at a coffee shop and a tip, the lady left us and we continued on our way to the Taman Sari Water Castle. This was the highlight of our visit to Yogya. Javanese art and architecture are at their most visible and remarkable. The west gate of the castle is exceptional (picture). We rounded off the day at Fort Vredeburg (buffer zone only), which features interesting dioramas on the city's troubled history and the complicated relations between the Dutch colonial forces and the sultans, and at the adjacent Pasar Beringharjo market.

The next two days were devoted to visits to Prambanan and Borobudur. Both are easily accessible from Yogyakarta by public transport.

On our last day, we walked north along Malioboro Avenue. This artery represents the Cosmological Axis along which this WHS unfolds. I was rather disappointed with this walk, as there are very few interesting buildings along the route. Even the features identified on the official map of the property are underwhelming. However, numerous panels line the route, increasing our understanding of the visit. Even before the property was listed, most of these mentioned the property's forthcoming inclusion on the list and showed the official map. After reaching the Tugu monument, we headed back south. We passed the mosque without visiting it, as it was packed for some activity, and then visited the bird market. On the way, some young girls wanted to interview my friend (a recurrent practice among Indonesians who seem to have seen very few white people) and even took her blood pressure!

The next day we took a train for Solo, from where we visited Sangiran. On a final note, Yogyakarta is a pleasant city, probably the most pleasant we've visited in Indonesia. It's an ideal base for many archaeological and natural sites. The gems, however, lie on the outskirts of the city. Indeed, apart from the Taman Sari Water Castle, no individual monument is truly exceptional.