First published: 27/01/14.

Frederik Dawson 2.5

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Inscribed)

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus by Frederik Dawson

In one Saturday morning I decided to do a city walk, from the Gateway of India to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, to discover Mumbai's colonial heritages in the historic area as well as one World Heritage Site and two sites in the tentative list, colonial and art nouveau buildings around Oval Maidan and Churchgate Station. I was fascinated by the sheer size and amount of colonial buildings built in Indo-Saracenic style especially at Bombay University and the High Court, and deeply moved by the gorgeous Georgian square at Horniman Circle, no wonder if the city of Mumbai wants to nominate its colonial heritages to be World Heritage Site.

I walked under European style covered walkway along Dr. D Naoroji Road, where many grand but crumbling palatial mansions located, to reach my destination, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or simply called CST. My first sight on the terminus was not exactly grand as I expected because the main entrance of the terminus did not face the main square, and the grayish but eye catching post office building and impressively Indo Saracenic building of Mumbai Municipal office stunned me instead. I walked around the square trying to find nice angle to take good photo, but I really did come a wrong time, as the sun was directly behind the building. I entered into the pedestrian tunnel to reach the terminus. I walked around the chaotic building with thousands of commuters, not a nice experience at all. I saw the ticket area to admire nice gothic ceiling that should be in cathedral more than railway station. Then I saw a board informing that Indian Railways had heritage tour to see the building interior on every weekday afternoon, but since I visited on a very bad time, Saturday morning so no chance for me to see interior or take a nice photo, better to come on weekday afternoon. I decided to walk around the building again and found the front gate was opening so I asked the guards to go inside the courtyard area which they were happily allowed me. In the courtyard I saw the World Heritage plaque, and much peaceful time to admire building façade details. I really admired the octagonal dome with its height and complicated design like crown.

After that I walked to Azad Maidan to see Churchgate station which is an extension of CST in the tentative list. I was surprised that Churchgate station was a new modern building. The Churchgate in the tentative list was the Western Railway HQ Building on the opposite side of the road. Since the building was an office so no chance to see the interior, but for the exterior I had to say the CST was grander in style and size. The style of Churchgate was quite united with other Victorian buildings around Oval Maidan as typical Indo Saracenic building style. I was not sure why Churchgate has been nominated as an extension project since I did not see its merit, and because Churchgate is located next to Oval Maidan, I believe it should technically be part of Mumbai colonial and art nouveau buildings nomination. Anyway I happily ended my city tour at a Persian restaurant at lunchtime, a fine half day in this chaotic city.

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