First published: 01/04/15.

Frederik Dawson 2.5

Hidden Christian Sites In The Nagasaki Region

Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region (Inscribed)

Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region by Frederik Dawson

Understanding the story of Kirishitan or Hidden Christian in Japan in the 16th and 17th centuries is mandatory to fully appreciate this nomination, strangely that in 1999 I have learnt the story of Kirishitan struggle after Shimabara Rebellion from 1997 Japanese anime, Rurouni Kenshin, after recommended from my friend because the story has many Dutch involved. 16 years later I arrived in Nagasaki and the memory from that anime especially the scenes of Oura Church vividly came back in my mind. From 13 components, I had opportunity to visit 3 of them, Oura Church and its precinct which including Former Catholic Seminary and Former Residence of Archbishop, Shitsu Church, and Ono Church. All are in or nearby Nagasaki city area.

I drove along the coastal road no. 202 for about an hour from Nagasaki to small village of Shimo-onomachi where the 1893 Ono Church is located. When I reached the church, at first I was really surprised to see that this small stone church hidden in the forest hill really looked like someone house, the white statue of Virgin Mary is the only sign that this is a church, but after looked closely I really enjoyed the design of this place from unique sliding windows and strange foyer, a really interesting piece of architecture. The 1882 Shisu Church was my next destination. Located in the hilly Nishi-Shitsumachi Town along route 202, this church can be immediately seen when I reached the town limit. Very different from Ono, the Shitsu one is really looked like a Western church. The nomination document claimed that this church is characterized by its low and flat appearance and interior, built to take into account the strong winds, something that understandable but not obviously appreciated, and the interior is really plain that similar to typical Japanese large hall, anyway the bell tower is quite something to see. Next day I finally visited the 1853 Oura Cathedral, the building is exactly liked in the anime, a western styled church on the hill surrounded by gardens and usual Japanese snack and souvenir shops. In front of the church has a statue of Virgin Mary marking the spot where a group of villagers from Urakami came to meet a French priest and disclosed the existence of Kirishitan in Japan, a truly touching story for Vatican that Pope Pius IX declared this as 'the Miracle of the Orient'. Inside the church is quite fine with French stained-glass window, I quite impressed with the faux Gothic vaulted ceiling made from bamboo by locals to imitate the art that they never have seen before. Then I went to the Former Catholic Seminary that exhibited the story of Kirishitan before continued to Glover Garden for another World Heritage Site nomination.

To be honest the three churches I saw, they are quite underwhelmed, and there is nothing extremely unique in term of architecture. The thing I impressed are the small details of church design to accommodate Japanese culture and weather in Ono Church and the impressive work of local craftsmen who can built Gothic styled church from sketch of Oura Church by wooden and bamboo. It is very hard to distinguish Nagasaki churches from many other churches around the world especially colonial cities in Asia except the story of Kirishitan, that also very hard to interpret via church structure. Maybe other churches outside Nagasaki city area can provide more obvious uniqueness of Kirishitan's stories like I saw in many documentaries; for example, statue of Virgin Mary in disguised of Goddess of Mercy or the hidden cave churches. In my opinion the story of Kirishitan needs to be preserved in some kind of UNESCO program, but as a World Heritage Site? Only ICOMOS and WHC can tell.

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