I was fortunate to join ICOMOS international experts two weeks field trip to Cambodia and Thailand exploring pre-Angkorian and Dvaravati arts and this trip took me to Dvaravati Si Thep, an upcoming UNESCO nomination of Thailand. Si Thep is one of the four contemporary ancient kingdoms of mainland Southeast Asia mentioned by Xuanzang in his record to India, Sri Ksetra (Myanmar’s Pyu), Chenla (Cambodia’s Sambor Prei Kuk), Cham (My Son in Vietnam) and Dvaravati, so to fill the gap, no surprised why Thailand push this site to be listed as World Heritage Site.

The first thing I saw at Si Thep was the city moat, the layout of Si Thep is quite unique. Originally the city was built in round shape, in accordance with experts’ explanation, a typical style of Dvaravati cities, then there was an expansion with rectangular form in the east, so the city looks like a mushroom, or some expert said a big lingam! Then we saw small museum with some artifacts and historical explanation. After museum there were sightseeing cars directly took us to the main temples area. The main temple or Prang Si Thep, since it was built when Dvaravati Si Thep was a part of Khmer Empire, it was clearly like what I saw in Cambodia, it was nothing interesting or unique. Not far from Prang Si Thep is Khao Klang Nai Temple, this one is better as it was built as Dvaravati Mahayana Buddhist temple, the ruined stupa is almost like a pile of brick but there are beautiful stuccos and motifs at the bottom of the stupa under protective shed, the design of these decorations especially the dwarf statues are different from other places. The temple’s Dharmachakra, a wheel of Dhamma, is also very lovely. According to the experts, while contemporary Sambor Prei Kuk and My Son were strict with Southern Indian art patterns, Si Thep is quite interesting with more liberal interpretation to develop its own style especially for Buddhist art.

I almost felt disappointed with Si Thep, apart from beautiful stucco at Khao Klang Nai, there is nothing much to see in the core historical zone. Most of Dvaravati’s discovery are artifacts, but not grand monuments like in Sambor Prei Kuk or My Son. Then we went to Khao Klang Nok Temple located outside the city moat. This temple turns out to be the real highlight of Si Thep and my favorite with the biggest laterite stupa in the world. The square stupa has very beautiful platform in shape of small palaces, this design is very Indian, another great example of early Indian art expansion. Although there is no decorating stucco, it is worthwhile to visit for its impressive size. Another main site of Si Thep is the cave temple of Khao Thamorat Mountain, unfortunately we had to cut it from the tour because of logistic issue, but the mountain has been pointed out when we were on the top of Khao Klang Nok stupa to show its role on urban planning. We later saw Dvaravati Buddha heads from Khao Thamorat at National Museum in Bangkok and famous Jim Thompson House. The story of Khao Thamorat looting by American cultural man and spy Jim Thompson was quite well known among historians similar to the story of French Andre Malraux did with Banteay Srei.              

Similar to other sights in Cambodia, if I did not come with ICOMOS experts, I doubt my idea on Si Thep will be positive since myself cannot point out or comprehend those differences on Dvaravati, Pre-Angkorian, Angkorian and Indian styles or very complicated historical timelines of each contemporary kingdoms on mainland Southeast Asia. Judging from the views of experts I came with; they were all happy to see and study Dvaravati culture at Si Thep and seemed to already endorse its Outstanding Universal Value even before final decision by World Heritage Committee. Despite its obscure information, Si Thep is very convenient to visit by 3.5 hours private transportation with superb highway from Bangkok to reach the historical park, except short dirt road to Khao Klang Nok. For casual visitor, don’t let Prang Si Thep trick you that Si Thep is another Khmer Angkorian site, and focus on Khao Klang Nok and Khao Klang Nai temples for its Dvaravati art.