WHS#3

Kyoto is the first WHS that I've had the chance to visit in 2 different trips. I first visited this amazing city on a day trip from Tokyo in May 2012, visiting just 2 out of the 17 WHS component sites, namely Kinkakuji and Kiyomizu-dera, probably the 2 most popular to visit. When I came back to Japan in December 2019, I knew I had to refresh my Kyoto experience, so I ended up coming back to Kyoto on a day trip from Osaka and visited 3 more sites in Kozanji, Ninnaji, and Nijo-jo. Kyoto as a WHS is a bit disconnected, as it's a predominantly modern city, but no one can deny how remarkable and evident its historic heritage is. The city is home to over a thousand temples, and out of those, only 13 are recognized as part of the WHS, which does sometimes raise the question of why this, why not that? Well, the best answer I can give to that is just this: Each component site has it's own individual OUV that makes it a good representation of the diversity of heritage in Kyoto. Of course, that's not to say that none of the other temples don't have individual value, but this just seems to be a defining characteristic for each of the inscribed sites. Now, without further ado, let's dive into each one.

Kinkakuji and Kiyomizu-dera are definitely highlights of the Kyoto WHS, at least for the touristic perspective. Kinkakuji's Golden Pavilion and Kiyomizu's wooden balcony view are definitely the 2 most iconic views of Kyoto, and for a reason. They're absolutely stunning sites. Kinkakuji is a great example of Japanese landscaping, providing the perfect view of the towering pavilion behind the peaceful lake, backed by a lush forest. The gold leaf shining in the sunlight is just a majestic sight that shows the richness of the culture that built this masterpiece. One minor fault to note, though, is that this great golden centerpiece was actually rebuilt in 1955. This is no Horyuji, but the structure, at least, seems to have been rebuilt authentically enough, and it's visual appeal is unaffected. Kiyomizu-dera is probably the most important monument in the Kyoto. Completely built from wood, this multistory temple on a mountainside is legendary for its beauty, scale, and innovation. I'll admit I don't remember as much as I wish I did about my 2012 trip, and I'm missing a lot of details, but those iconic views are vivid as ever.

For my recent trip, I was armed with the JR Pass. I quickly realized that to make the most of it, I had to find a site that I'd be unlikely to get to without the pass, and that was Kozanji. Only the JR bus goes all the way to Toganoo, just past Takao about an hour's drive from Kyoto Station, so I took the chance to visit this relatively unknown temple. Kozanji is not a grand monument. For a steep price of 800 yen, you get to walk in a single bare 800-year-old wooden building and its small garden. I know that doesn't sound like much, but this is actually one of the coolest little corners in Kyoto. The building itself isn't impressive or particularly beautiful, but it's entirely authentic. It's also home to the first manga. In case you didn't know, manga are the comic strips made in Japan that have a very distinct style of art. Here, you can see a collection of scrolls that are said to be the comic's predecessor, and they're really cool artistic works. There are also a few statues and figures to see. The best part of visiting is really just the atmosphere, though. It's so tranquil, surrounded by beautiful pine-covered mountains, and the garden, though tiny, is just so subtly beautiful. And with all the moss around, it just feels straight out of a fairy tale. Kozanji is also the first place in Japan where tea was grown, so that's another big fact that attests to the huge significance of this site.

My next stop was Ninnaji, whose gate towered over the road that the JR bus passes on the way to and from Takao. I had originally considered skipping Ninnaji due to the time constraints I had on the day, but seeing the gate was too tempting to skip. Unfortunately, winter isn't the best time to explore a prime cherry blossom viewing spot. The famous Omuro Cherries, the late-blooming pygmy blossoms, weren't just lifeless, but off limits. I also skipped the 500 yen entry to the Goten to explore the free area for the same time constraints and winter circumstances. The temple buildings are all separated and arranged in a pattern ascending the hillside, and observing the different halls and pagodas was definitely enjoyable. While all the interiors were off-limits at the time, there was one hall with window openings wide enough that I could stick my phone through for a picture, and it was impressive. The Buddhist art here is exquisite. The 5-story pagoda here is also a highlight, and I wondered how high the one at Toji could be for it to be taller than this one. Overall, Ninnaji is a really interesting, rich, and underrated temple of Kyoto.

After having lunch, I found that I had to skip Ryoanji instead, so I went straight to the highlight of the day, Nijo-jo. The Karamon is probably the most beautiful gate in Kyoto for the intricacy in its colorful carvings. Ninomaru Palace, with its golden sliding doors, colorful ceilings, and nightingale floors, is a sight and sound to behold. Seriously, it didn't matter how softly and slowly I stepped, the floor just kept chirping. I find that the no picture policy works well in the palace, as crowds don't get too congested in the wooden hallways. The garden here is one of the best out there as it's impossible to see a bad view. Honmaru Palace was unfortunately under renovation and was completely covered. The inner moat, though, did not disappoint, especially from the Donjon. Nijo-jo is, to me, the artistic peak of Kyoto, and it's the true symbol of the imperial capital that defines so much of its history.

After this, I went to Arashiyama to see the illuminations of the Hanatouro Festival. The Bamboo Grove and Togetsukyo Bridge were lighted up in a dazzling array of colors, but Tenryuji, a component site of the WHS, was closed. Unfortunately, due to the circumstances of the time, as well as my bad planning of the day, I don't think I truly got the proper experience for any of the WHS sites in Kyoto that I visited, except Kozanji. Kyoto is a place that I know I've missed a lot of, and it's a place I know I'll come back for someday. To come back for further insights on Kinkakuji and Kiyomizu-dera, the Goten and Omuro Cherries of Ninnaji, the Honmaru of Nijo-jo, and all the other amazing sites, WHS and not, is definitely a goal for me. It would be especially great to see the magnificence of Byodoin, the beauty of Enryakuji, the mystery of Kokedera, and the pagoda at Toji. And of course, I'd love to hike the full Fushimi Inari trail. It's probably not a part of the WHS because of its nature as a shrine constantly contributed to by donors, but it's not any less significant than any other great site. Temples like Sanjusangendo, Nanzenji, Jingoji, and Daitokuji also seem to be on par with the WHS temples. There's just so much to see in Kyoto that it will never be finished, and it's so hard to sum it up. It truly represents the height of Japanese culture, and no matter the strange technicalities, it's an undeniably wondrous city that takes lifetimes to understand and explore.