On a sunny June day in 2023, I arrived at Iksan station (conveniently right next to the intercity bus station) to see the Mireuksa Temple Site. All you have to do from here is go straight (crossing one road) and look for the nearest bus stop on the right side (bus direction: away from the station), and you can take city bus #41 from there to the site in just under an hour. As one may already expect from previous reviews, there is not so much to the site, but really, one may take up to an hour taking things slow and thoroughly appreciating all the little details (there are several markers to read too) as the distances in the vast open space with beautiful natural surroundings can be deceptively long; even more time would be needed to check out the museum. Be warned, the bus may pass by early, so indeed, it may be unwise to commute all the way here if you are in a rush. Still, I found Iksan to be extra convenient for my itinerary since I planned to be in Jeonju by afternoon, and Mireuksa seemed to be one of the most definitive components of this serial site.

Arriving at the site, you will first encounter two scenic little ponds, one on each side of the path. Ascending towards the temple grounds, you will next find two original stone flagpoles. Finally, on the highest level, with the beautiful Yonghwasan (Dragon Flower Mountain) in the background, the two stone pagodas shine proudly, standing as testimonies to 1400-year-old architectural tradition that has gone on to shape civilization throughout Korea and Japan. Between them, archaeological work is being done on a mound that used to be the even taller main wooden pagoda of Mireuksa. Behind each of the three pagoda sites lies a ruined (but still somewhat photogenic) lecture/prayer hall, and behind those, the (much less photogenic) foundations of the monks' living quarters. The western pagoda is original, 6 stories high, and surrounded by a fence that may not be crossed, while the eastern one is mostly modern construction, 9 stories high, and accessible to the first floor, which is devoid of decorations, lacks any staircase, and consists of a thick square stone pillar surrounded by the 4 corridors opening in the cardinal directions.

Even in its ruined state, Mireuksa's western stone pagoda demonstrates the advanced stonework of the Baekje which can be seen as the predecessor to the more renowned Silla granite masterpieces, as well as the Buddhist architecture that was eventually transmitted to and epitomized by the rest of Korea and Japan. Even alone, I can see the argument for its OUV, and when coupled with the other unique constructions of the Baekje, especially the artistic wonder of their tombs, I have to say this is a surprisingly deserving World Heritage Site. I would be delighted to check out more of the serial components whenever I can revisit Korea.