The Korean nation has been unified by just three powers in its history, the Silla in Gyeongju, the Koryeo in Kaesong, and the Joseon in Seoul. For that, these are probably the three most historically rich and significant cities on the peninsula. The Joseon cultural heritage is the basis for four different WHSs in Seoul (with a fifth one in nearby Suwon), but Gyeongju's Silla heritage has been somewhat strangely divided into two sites. Sure, I guess Bulguksa and Seokguram, being located a fair way away from the main city, in Tohamsan, do make a good single site together, but I personally feel like Gyeongju would be better off with either a single all-encompassing site to truly capture the greatness of the Silla capital or three or more to actually highlight the different aspects of its heritage; for example, I feel that the OUV of Namsan and Tohamsan are much more similar than between Namsan and the Tumuli fields. Actually, I see Namsan not as inferior to Tohamsan in granite carvings, but as a single world wonder of Silla stonework, with Seokguram as its crown jewel, but being just as worthy of its prestige regardless of it. Thus, a combined site of Gyeongju's Silla heritage would probably get a 4.5 from me. Nevertheless, I've found the main Gyeongju site to be well worth the journey, and despite the crowds and the underwhelming response you may have if you don't know what to expect and/or only stick to the central touristic circuit, I still found it to be the most interesting and important cultural WHS in Korea after visiting all of them in June 2023.

"If you haven't visited Namsan, you haven't visited Gyeongju." This apparently famous Korean quote echoed in my head as I planned my Gyeongju itinerary. Namsan was the toughest nut to crack because there may just be a million ways to explore it. In the end, I settled with the Samreung Valley trek. This 1.5-kilometer trek would take you to tumuli, a small temple, and many different Buddhist petroglyphs and carvings into the hard granite of the mountain, before coming to a peak where you can gaze out over the city. It's fairly well demarcated, and the terrain isn't too difficult or hazardous, with many hemp ramps and staircases and not much loose soil; just take it easy and enjoy the sights and cool mountain air. Buses 502 and 504 will get you to the start of the trail from the central bus station in about twenty minutes. Look out for little side trails with signs pointing towards carvings - you're gonna wanna take those little detours to make the most of this open air museum, though take note that the several meters on those signs are never that quick and easy due to the inclines. The greatest detour to take was to the seated Buddha statue, carved from the mountain's granite and immaculately preserved here for over a millennium, and this was a couple hundred meters up a side trail (actually unmarked, but the main trail split into two, and I chanced upon this by going to the wrong side). At the end, the view from the peak was spectacular, and it was a great feeling knowing I'd conquered a mountain and explored such an amazing monument at the same time. No single monument is to the level of Seokguram, but all together, I'd say it's one of the most extraordinary Buddhist landscapes in the world. To me, Namsan is easily the most impressive part of this WHS... you just have to work for it.

As for the rest of Gyeongju, I'd say it's easily covered by the other reviews. Like everyone else, I agree that the observatory is the most important monument in the central axis, but the mounds are actually really impressive too, dare I say the best ones to see in East Asia, and there's even one tomb (Geumgwanchong) that's been excavated and can be explored, though it closes earlier than the tumuli park. The central touristic axis is completely walkable and includes both the Tumuli Park Belt and the Wolseong Belt, which actually also contains the site of the palace, though no notable remains can be seen. Bunhwangsa, the only standing structure in the Hwangnyongsa Belt, can be seen on the way back from Bulguksa, on the same bus route. I must also note that basing yourself next to the central bus station is paramount; not only do all intercity buses arrive and depart from here, but so do all the city buses that you can take to Namsan, Tohamsan, Yangdong, and even Oksan. There is also a good range of accommodation and food in the area. And even just as you arrive, you may begin to see some of the historic relics on display on the sidewalk, hinting to the visitor that this is not just any ordinary city. While not a lot remains, what does still stand in Gyeongju is already remarkable for its age and advancement in its time. This was one of the greatest cities in world history, and while it may not seem as grand as many of its more famous contemporaries and counterparts, it shows this distinction in many, often subtle, ways. There's a lot more to Gyeongju than meets the eye of a day-tripper or a surface-level tourist. It's definitely a must-visit on any trip to Korea.