Phnom Kulen was never on my plans for my trip to Cambodia in January 2023. All that I'd known about it was that there was a mini-version of Kbal Spean, a waterfall, and a reclining Buddha; I had no idea that it was also the site of the former capital of the Khmer or that there are a lot of remains of that time left behind. Instead, I'd set my eyes on Kbal Spean itself. Our driver-guide, on the other hand, didn't like the idea as much and recommended Phnom Kulen instead, and because I was traveling with my aunt who was having foot and knee problems, I caved and followed his suggestion. I'm actually quite glad I did, though I hope I'll see Kbal Spean one day, perhaps with better hiking company. Phnom Kulen ended up taking the whole morning into early afternoon (which is a must, as the national park closes entry at around noon) and a fairly hefty $20 entrance fee per foreign head, which must be bought at a certain hotel in Siem Reap (just ask any Angkor guide you have). After driving for about an hour towards and into the park, we arrived at the parking lot, and I was in for an adventure I'd never prepared for.

Our driver-guide negotiated with a motorcycle rider at the parking lot, who was offering an off-road tour to four sites in the jungle, and they reached a deal that was then recommended to me. I ended up being the only one in my family who took up the offer, so off we zipped into the forest alone. It was absolutely the wildest ride of my life, and I genuinely had a hard time not losing my grip and falling off the motorcycle as it ran through bare rough rocks, muddy gravelly passageways, bumpy mountainsides, and hairpin curves; the constant overgrowth slapping into our faces wasn't any help either, and we also crossed the occasional stream and monstrous puddle. The first stop was a cave of bats... based on my driver's broken English, I guess they were subjects of worship in some way? The cave was quite dark, the ceiling low, and the ambiance quite dismal, though it was cool to come across a stupa in the middle of it. Fortunately, this was the low point on this tour, and Phnom Kulen was about to start impressing me. The next stop was the (apparently) famous Srah Damrei, the (life-size? maybe even larger) statues of the elephant and lions. This was a site unlike anything else in Cambodia, and I'd say it and Kbal Spean are probably the highlights for a Phnom Kulen visit. Either way, make sure your motorcycle tour includes this site. Next up was Damrei Krab Temple, which is covered very well by Frederik before me; this was also quite a worthwhile stop quite distinct from any of the younger temples in Angkor. Lastly, we went to Peung Ey Sey, checking off the heavily ruined Prasat O Toub Temple on the hike to it. This is a site to appreciate the great trees and the babbling brooks of the mountain, with some rock carvings all around including what seems to be an altar in a boulder standing in the middle of the stream. Once again, this was a unique site, though with less impressive historic remains. The motorcycle soon came to a long stretch of downhill road, which had me keeping my hands on my cap to ensure it wouldnt fly away. Afterwards, the tour concluded at Preah Ang Thom, which is the modern temple with the reclining Buddha, about 5-10 minutes by foot from the parking lot. Afterwards, I met with my family, and our driver-guide took us to the last two sites along the main park road. First was the carved lingam riverbed. This was like the pictures I see of Kbal Spean but more monotonous; the carvings take up flat parts of the riverbed and solely consist of lingams. At least this was more elderly-friendly, and there was a really cool bubbling spring pool nearby. Our final site was the waterfall, which actually has an upper and lower level for swimming and a ruined temple crowning it. It was pretty stunning, well worth the steep hike to get there, and the waters were oh so tempting.

In conclusion, I think there's a lot more to Ancient Mahendraparvata than meets the eye. It seems to be a primary target of archaeological excavation and exploration, and many hidden gems could still possibly come to light from this vast city and its mountain. As a Pre-Angkorian capital of the Khmer, I think it's an even more significant site than, say, Koh Ker or Preah Vihear, which I believe are / would be very worthy World Heritage Sites in their own right. Additionally, sites like Srah Damrei and the lingam riverbeds are completely unique sites in the world of Khmer ruins. It's a bit sad to me that Phnom Kulen is only being pushed as an extension to Angkor when it's clearly so much more than that. As its own site, I'd rank it at 3 to 3.5 stars, an above average World Heritage Site on the global stage, and a pleasant surprise to round out my trip to Cambodia.