First published: 10/09/12.

Hubert 2.0

Abbey And Altenmünster Of Lorsch

Abbey and Altenmünster of Lorsch (Inscribed)

Abbey and Altenmünster of Lorsch by Hubert

The Torhalle in Lorsch is one of the rare buildings from the Carolingian period that has been preserved in its original appearance. This fact alone justifies the inscription. Moreover the building is an architectural gem. I am always fascinated and impressed by the beauty of the ornate faҫade. But probably I am biased in my opinion because the Lorsch Abbey was the first WHS that I have visited. Lorsch is only a few kilometres from my birthplace and I visited the remains of the Abbey many times, the last time in July 2012. Nevertheless, I can understand that many visitors are disappointed if they expect a large monastery complex like in Maulbronn. In Lorsch, only the Carolingian Torhalle and the rather inconspicuous remains of the Romanesque church are preserved.

The Torhalle is unexpectedly small (only about 11 metres wide and 7 metres in height), but the design of the faҫade indicates its former exceptional importance. Both, the east and west faҫades are decorated with ionic capitals, fluted pilasters, columns and friezes. Most striking is the mosaic-like design with red and white stones. These stones are integral parts of the brickwork, not subsequently attached ornaments. Maybe one reason why they are so well preserved. Unusual for such a small building is that there are stair towers on both sides. The exterior of the hall remained almost unchanged until today. The only major modification was at the end of the 14th Century, when the Carolingian saddle roof was replaced by a Gothic roof with steep gables.

There are still many unsolved mysteries about the Torhalle. Neither the exact time of its construction (probably mid-9th Century) nor the builders are known. And also the original purpose is still unclear. The three large arches at the ground level suggest the use as an entrance gate to the monastery. However, this is unlikely because the hall was built within the monastery walls. Many theories assume a profane use, for instance as a courthouse or reception hall. According to a recent hypothesis, the Torhalle was part of a pilgrimage route. Lorsch was an important place of pilgrimage, the relics of Saint Nazarius were kept in the monastery. In the late-Carolingian period the interior was rebuilt for the use as a chapel.

During my last visit I also went on a guided tour through the interior to see the frescoes. There are guided tours every hour from 11 am to 4 pm (except Monday, in winter weekends only), the tour lasts about 30 minutes. The walls of the upper storey were originally painted with Roman columns, architraves and other architectural elements. The architectural painting should create the illusion of an open loggia. But there are only a few remains of these Carolingian frescoes. The mural painting was supplemented to give an impression of the original appearance. Much better preserved are the frescoes from the 14th Century in the gables (photo). They depict Mary, Jesus and angels playing trumpets, lutes and other musical instruments.

Lorsch Abbey is worth a stopover, it takes not more than an hour to properly visit the site (even inclusive a visit of the interior). Lorsch is close to the highway A67 on the way from the Messel pit to Speyer Cathedral. Be aware, that the Torhalle is under scaffolding because of restoration works (until end of 2012) and the Romanesque church is closed for archaeological excavations.

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