First published: 16/04/20.

Hubert

Asuka-Fujiwara

Asuka-Fujiwara (Nominated)

Asuka-Fujiwara by Hubert

The Asuka period ranged from the mid-6th century to the early 8th century, when the imperial capital was first located in Asuka and then in Fujisawa for sixteen years. The period is characterized by the increasing influence of Korea and China on culture and society in ancient Japan. Important events at this time were the official introduction of Buddhism and the first written constitution in Japan.
The term "archaeological sites" in the title of the TWHS suggests that most of the sites are underground and that little is visible of the original remains. And indeed, the TWHS entry at the Unesco website reads: „The component features of the site are principally the archaeological remains of palaces and residences of the emperor and imperial court and their related facilities (such as gardens, etc.); the site of Japan's first genuine capital city; and the remains of temples and burial mounds… These remains have been preserved beneath the earth in good condition down to the present, …”. The T-list entry does not specify the locations that are designated for a future nomination, only a few are mentioned by name (e.g. Takamatsuzuka Tomb, Kitora Tomb). But Wikipedia knows more and provides a complete list of 28 sites clustered in the municipalities of Asuka and Kashihara.

Coming from Nara, I arrived at Asuka train station in the early morning. Asuka is on the Kintetsu Railway Line, which is not included in the Japan Rail Pass. I fully agree with Zoë (see the review below) that a rental bike is the most appropriate means of transport to explore this tentative site, and it is highly enjoyable. A bike rental is located in front of the train station, right next to the tourist information. I scheduled half a day for this TWHS, time enough for a proper visit, most of the locations are within a radius of 3-4 km east of Asuka station. In a full day you may be able to visit all of the 28 locations.

My first stop was Takamatsuzuka Kofun, located in the Asuka Historical Park. The tomb is not open to the public, but the Mural Hall Museum right next door shows replicas of the colourful frescoes and the grave goods. Actually, it is not allowed to take pictures, but I was faster than the guard who kindly made me aware of the prohibition sign. So I have a photo of the most famous fresco (upper photo). A little further south is another tomb with frescoes, the Kitora Kofun. Again, the original grave is closed and replicas are on display in a museum, but at the day I visited it was closed due to a school event.
Ishibutai Kofun seems to be the most popular site in Asuka in terms of number of visitors on that day. It is the only kofun that is not covered (or rather: is no longer covered) with earth, so the two massive megaliths that form the ceiling are visible. And you can even enter the tomb.
The Sakafune Ishi (lower photo) is the most enigmatic stone in Asuka, its original purpose is unknown. Legend has it that it was used for brewing sake, for squeezing the moisture out of sake yeast. This gave it its name. However, there are various other theories. Indeed, the grooves and hollows look like made for running liquids. But it is not evident whether it was sake, water, oil or something else. Anyway, I had a great time speculating with some guys from New Zealand about the function of this stone slab. We have proposed some really strange hypotheses.

The ruins of Itabuki Palace are an example for the above menitioned archaeological sites where the foundation stones have been restored or the ground plan is symbolically marked. Similar sites include the Inabuchi Palace, the ruins of the Buddhist temples Kawara-dera and Yamada-dera, and the Asuka Mizuochi Site, in the 7th century the location of a large water clock.
There are also three active Buddhist temples on the list: Asuka-dera, Oka-dera, and Tachibana-dera. Of these, I only visited Asuka-dera. It is regarded as the first Buddhist temple in Japan. The temple was moved to Nara during the relocation of the capital in 718, and renamed in Gango-ji. The buildings that can be visited today are only a few hundred years old and date back to the Edo period. Worth mentioning is a three-meter-high Buddha statue, which is considered the oldest Buddha statue in Japan, at least some parts of which date from the early 7th century.

From a visitor's point of view, this TWHS has no spectacular sites to offer. The Kofuns are closed to the public and the remains of temples and palaces are hidden underground. At some sites, the foundation walls have been reconstructed to give an idea of ​​the size and layout of the buildings, at other sites, the destroyed buildings have been replaced by later constructions, and sometimes you have to be content with an info board.
But I was also pleasantly surprised, as is often the case when you don't expect much. All in all, I had a good time exploring this rural area, cycling through rice fields and small villages and hunting for some odd locations.

No doubt, that the proposed sites are of historical significance. There are numerous remains in a relatively small area that represent an important period in Japanese history, further illustrated by museums, replica and reconstructions. Enough to tell a comprehensive story. In my opinion, an inscription is very likely if this site would be nominated.

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