
Avignon had its heyday in the 14th Century, when it was the residence of seven popes and two anti-popes. The main sight is the Gothic Palais des Papes, actually a complex of two nested palaces built around two courtyards (the large Cour d'Honneur and the cloister). The exterior is austere and repellent. With its massive walls, the towers, the machicolation and embrasures the palace looks more like a fortress. Most of the interior rooms are very large, but as other reviewer mentioned they are largely empty. The few things that can be seen: the treasury with a secret-chamber under the floor, and of course the frescoes in the Papal apartments and in two small chapels. Unfortunately it is not allowed to take pictures of the frescoes. The largest room in the palace is the dining hall, almost 50 meters in length (shows where the focus was at the papal court?). For me, the best part was the roof, with beautiful views of the Cathedral, the Place du Palais and the city center (the photo shows the view to the 'Tour de la Campagne' and the tower of the Cathedral). You can visit the palace on a self-guided tour, the audio guide was interesting and detailed (as almost everywhere on our tour to South France).
The adjacent Romanesque Cathedral, Notre-Dame des Doms d'Avignon, is older than the Palace, the interior is in Gothic and Baroque style (eg the Baroque gallery). Most striking is the golden statue of the Virgin Mary from the 19th Century at the top of the tower. There are only a few steps from the Cathedral to the Rocher des Doms, today a public park.
At the northern end of the Place du Palais is the Musée du Petite Palais, a collection of art of the Italian Renaissance and the Ecole d'Avignon (14th Century). A worthwhile supplement to the visit of the Palais des Papes, even for people like me who are less enthusiastic about art from this period. Also worth a look: the ornate façade of the Hotel de la Monnaie, just across from the Palais du Pape.
Another part of the WHS is the Pont Saint-Bénézet, or rather its remains: four arches, a gatehouse and the two-storey chapel. The bridge has no direct relation to the Avignon Papacy, but beautifully contributes to the panorama of Avignon which can best be admired from the Ile de la Barthelasse. You can ferry across the Rhône for free in a small boat, the landing stage is close to the bridge.
Avignon is a lively city with many bars and restaurants, ample entertainment in the evening. I liked best the atmosphere in the rue des Teinturiers, a cobbled street along a canal with some old water wheels. And a special tip: the Mon Bar in the rue Portail-Matheron, a typical French café and bar, the interior has the charm of the 1950s. There we had our first glass of red vine every evening.
Comments
No comments yet.