France has twice succeeded in turning a "not to inscribe" recommendation by IUCN into a referral (in 2014 and 2016). Both IUCN evaluations were harsh, but clear, the main objection was that „the integrity of the property in relation to its natural values is compromised by the long standing and on-going impacts of human use, which result in a landscape that is fundamentally not 'natural'” (cited from the IUCN evaluation 2014). But now, on the third attempt in 2018, all concerns are miraculously dispelled and IUCN recommends inscription, thus a safe bet at the WHC. Two active quarries have been removed from the nominated area, but apart from that, the boundaries have not changed in comparison to 2014. Now the focus is on criterion viii (outstanding examples representing major stages of earth's history), criterion vii (superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance) has been withdrawn. Apparently that was enough to convince IUCN.

I visited the site in June 2013, it was the last step of a trip to Southern France. I have to say, I was surprised that it was nominated solely on basis of natural criteria. For a natural WHS it is a quite densely populated area. The human impact on the landscape is obvious: grazing sheep, active quarries, the huge antenna on the Puy de Dôme (already mentioned by Els), even a golf course. Well, there are more than 80 volcanoes (puys) in an area of about 30 km length and 4 km width, that is certainly impressive. The "uniqueness of the Chaîne des Puys lies in the density of its volcanic features, and the varied chemistry of the lavas which result in visually distinct volcanic shapes: cones, domes and maars. The chemical differentiation is due to the location of magma chambers at different depths, in which different degrees of magmatic evolution took place” (cited from the candidature website).

We thought we should start our visit at the Puy de Dôme. It is the highest peak of the area, and also one of the seventeen sites labelled as "Grand Sites de France". We arrived at 2 pm at the valley station of the rack railway. We had to share the train with a dozen tourists and about four or five school classes. At the summit, there were a lot more schoolchildren, obviously every French child must have been there once, and a considerable proportion of them chose the same day as we did. The weather was quite good, sunny, but not so clear that we could see the entire string of Puys. Nevertheless, the view to the surrounding volcanic cones was very nice (the photo shows the view to the Puy de Côme). But even if you enjoy extensively all the viewpoints along the circular walk and also take a look at the temple ruins, one hour on the top is enough.

The next day we hiked around the craters near the Puy de Dôme. The trail goes from the Puy Pariou via the Grottes du Clierzou and the Puy de Clierzou to the Puy de Côme. We walked around the crater rims and to the bottom of the craters. There were only a few other hikers around but we saw a lot of grazing sheep. A nice half-day hike, but nothing outstanding.

We had visited the highest volcanic dome (Puy de Dôme) and the highest volcanic cone (Puy de Côme) in the nominated area, so only a maar was missing. The description on the candidature website states that there are ten maars in the Chaîne des Puys, but it mentions only Narse d’Espinasse, which is actually a marsh filled with sediment. And it seems to be outside the core zone. Other sources often give Lac Pavin as an example, which also seems to be outside the nominated area (currently the candidature website and the map in IUCN evaluation show only one location). Apart from the Narse d'Espinasse we made two short stops at Lake Aydat and Lake Cassière, two dammed lakes (within the nominated area). Both "are the best examples of relief which has been modified through volcanism: the long lava flow originating from the Puy de la Vache sealed off two former valleys, thus blocking the water flow and leading to the creation of these two lakes" (candidature website). On our drive back to Clermont-Ferrand (where we stayed for two nights) we tried to spot the Limagne Fault, which extends in parallel to the Chaîne des Puys. Probably only people with some geological knowledge may recognize this as an important tectonic structure.

By the way: the Basilica of Notre Dame du Port in Clermont-Ferrant is part of the WHS Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

Well, I think I did my best to properly visit this tentative site. Because of the positive recommendation of IUCN, an inscription is very likely. One more tick on my list of visited sites. But, to be honest, I'm not very enthusiastic about the Chaine des Puys.