First published: 23/06/18.

Hubert 4.0

Convent Of Christ In Tomar

Convent of Christ in Tomar (Inscribed)

Convent of Christ in Tomar by Hubert

Initially I was skeptical whether it would be a good idea to visit three monasteries on two consecutive days. Or whether it would be rather an overkill of sacral architecture. But it turned out to be an enjoyable and instructive experience to visit them one after another and directly compare the different styles: the rather plain and sober Alcobaça, the flamboyant Batalha, and the fortress-like Tomar. The three monasteries could not be more different, hardly possible to say which one was my favourite.

The Convento de Cristo was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century as a combination of a monastery and a fortress. In the following centuries, the convent was extended and redesigned, today it consists of buildings dating from the Medieval Period to the 18th century.
You enter the convent through the abundantly decorated south portal, a first example of the Gothic-Manueline style. The centre of the monastery complex is the original round church of the Templars, the Charola. Later, the Charola was extended by a nave and a choir. But do not expect a huge church as in Alcobaça or Batalha, it is a small building compared to the size of the whole convent and the octagon with its beautiful murals is one of the highlights of the visit. Another one is the west façade of the church with the famous Manueline window. You should take your time to study all the details, the maritime references are clearly visible: ropes and sailor’s knots, coral motifs etc. No doubt that the Portuguese kings gained their wealth from seafaring.
Apart from these highlights it is really enjoyable to explore the labyrinth of cloister stretching over three floors (I read that there are eight cloisters, well, I did not count them). You always have to take care not to miss a door or a turn to yet unseen parts of the complex. Other remarkable parts are the Great Cloister with four spiral staircases to the top floor and the dormitory, which is not one huge room, but two long corridors with monk cells.

I stayed one night in Tomar. It is a pretty small town, on Sunday evening it was very lively in the streets around the main square, at the Roman Bridge and in the Parque do Mouchão (an island in the river Nabão). The Convento de Cristo is located on the top of a hill above the old town of Tomar. But from the town centre you can only see the walls of the medieval fortress. From the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Piedade you have a beautiful view to the monastery (photo): left the remains of the medieval fortifications, the whitewashed wall of the convent and the church in the middle. The viewpoint is not far from the town centre, but you have to climb 300 steps. I took it as a morning exercise, but you can also go there by car.
All in all, the Convento de Cristo is one of the finest WHS in Portugal and Tomar a nice place to stay for one night.

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