Old towns often perch on hills. But Cuenca has taken it to the extreme. Cuenca was built on a narrow rocky plateau between two ravines, one of them with vertically sloping walls. Space was sparse, so over the centuries the houses grew together into a nested whole, several storeys high or deep. Some of these houses were even extended with oriel windows and balconies that overhang the edge of the slope. And so the Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) have become the city's landmark. A creative way of dealing with a lack of space.

The best view of the Casas Colgadas is from the old iron bridge over the Huécar gorge. A shaky adventure, you should be free from vertigo. But it is worth stopping on the bridge for a view and some photos. Only these three hanging houses have survived, or are there four? You can't tell exactly. But the other buildings on the edge of this steep cliff are also a spectacular sight. Today, the Casas Colgadas house the Museo de Arte Abstracto Español, which exhibits Spanish artists from the second half of the 20th century. A great location for a museum of modern art. It's worth a visit, the collection is one of the most important of its kind in Spain. 

A few steps further and you are at the Plaza Mayor, a charming and colourful spot. The houses are painted in red, yellow, orange and blue. The square is dominated by the façade of the Catedral de Cuenca. Imposing, but it looks a little weird because a bell tower is missing. The tower collapsed in 1902, the façade was rebuilt in neo-Gothic style but without the tower. The interior was a wounderful surprise. It features art and architecture from all periods since the cathedral was built in the 12th century. The Arco de Jamete, the doorway to the cloister, is highlighted as an outstanding masterpiece. Not wrong, but I also liked the carved walnut doors and door frames of the chapter room. And the bright stained-glass windows from the late 20th century, which create coloured light effects on the gothic columns and floors.

Leaving the cathedral, you can go left down to the lower town, which is also part of the core zone. You walk through the arches of the Town Hall (photo). It was built in the 18th century and the location across the access to Plaza Mayor was apparently the only option. Another example of efficient use of space.
Alternatively, you can turn right and walk to the Barrio del Castillo, named after the Moorish fort, of which only a few remains have been preserved.  Up there is also the Convent of the Carmelites, which today houses the Fundación Antonio Pérez, another collection of modern art. Modern art was obviously the common thread of my visit to Cuenca. The four floors of the museum are crammed with paintings and sculptures, even the stairways. A bit quirky and far too much to really enjoy. But the room with works by Manolo Millares was the highlight and alone well worth the visit.
From the Barrio del Castillo, stairs lead down to the Júcar River. From this side, the view of the old town is less spectacular than from the Huécar gorge. Via the lower town and Calle Alfonso VIII, you get back to the Plaza Mayor.

If you spend less time on modern art than I did, half a day is enough for this walk. I stayed overnight at the beautiful Parador de Cuenca, located in a former monastery directly opposite the Casas Colgadas. I let the day end with a glass of red wine at the Plaza Mayor, where the setting sun beautifully illuminated the façade of the cathedral.