Vauban completed! In June 2023, on my trip to Lombardy and Piedmont, I took the opportunity for a day trip to the French Alps to visit my last two Vauban Fortifications. In my recent review of the Savoy Residences, I complained about serial WHS with too many locations. However, the Vauban Fortifications are, in my opinion, an example of an appropriate number of sub-locations. The twelve fortifications are scattered along the outer borders of present-day France and you can compare how Vauban adapted his construction principles to the different terrain: in the high and low mountains, on flat terrain, on the coast, at an estuary and on islands.
At the time of my first review (see below), I had visited six of the locations. In my second review here, I start with the two sites in the Alps, because they have not yet been described in more detail. And then I give my personal ranking of all Vauban sites, with short descriptions.

The setting of the Briancon Fortifications (photo) is truly picturesque: the fortified old town (Cité Vauban) with Fort Chateau in the centre, and a system of forts and fortifications scattered on the surrounding slopes and hilltops. All this to protect the strategically important mountain pass to Italy. I had expected a rather touristy spot, but there were only a few people in the old town on the Sunday morning when I visited. And that might be the reason why the forts don't have regular opening hours, there are only guided tours on several days in summer. But not in early June when I was there. I would nevertheless recommend walking from the old town down to the Pont d'Alsfeld and up again, at least to the Fort Trois-Têtes. It is a little disappointing to stand in front of the closed gates and see only the outer walls, but you get beautiful views of the Cité Vauban and the surrounding fortifications. The whole loop further up to the Forts Randouillet and Dauphin took about 2.5 hours.
Mont-Dauphin is a garrison town located on a rocky plateau overlooking two river valleys. The ensemble of houses, barracks, arsenal and fortifications is almost completely preserved. Again, a beautiful location and only a few tourists. But there are guided tours to the fortifications almost daily, unfortunately I was too late for the start of the last tour.

And now the ranking. Originally I wanted to categorise the sites into three groups: Top, average and weak. But that would be quite boring and uninspiring. So a clear ranking. It was more difficult than I thought. Of course, it is my personal view based on the experiences of my visits.

1. Villefranche-de-Conflent - Wonderful location and a beautiful village. The city walls may not be as impressive as at other Vauban sites. The highlight is the walk up to Fort Liberia and back down via the underground staircase (734 steps).
2. Besançon - a charming city, the largest of all Vauban towns, located in a loop of the river Doubs. The citadel is perched on a hill high above the old town and offers great views of the Doubs and the surrounding countryside. The highlights are the walks on the wall of the citadel and on the banks of the Doubs.
3. Neuf-Brisach - situated on flat terrain, with a completely symmetrical layout. The site is perfect for exploring the Vauban system of ramparts, ravelins, walls and trenches. You can walk on the inner wall, along the outer fortifications and down in the trenches.
4. Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue and Tatihou - basically only two towers. The highlight is the Tatihou Tower or actually the trip to the island: with an amphibious vehicle (pre-booking required) or on foot at low tide. The Hougue Tower can be reached on foot/by car (opening hours daily in summer, otherwise on weekends).
5. Blaye/Fort-Médoc - the special feature is the axis between the Blaye citadel, Fort Paté on a tiny island in the Gironde and Fort Médoc on the opposite bank of the river. There is a ferry from Blaye to Lamarque, then it is a 30-minute walk to Fort Médoc, but it's not really worth the visit. The citadel is nice, you can visit the underground fortifications with a guided tour, quite interesting.
6. Briançon - I would rank it higher if the surrounding forts had regular opening hours.
7. Saint-Martin-de-Ré - the most touristy spot among the Vauban sites. A charming town with a fortified port. The fortifications are massive. The main drawback is that the citadel is used as a high-security prison and is not accessible.
8. Mont-Dauphin – nice location in the French Alps, an almost completely preserved garrison town.
9. Mont-Louis – a combination of fortified town and citadel, located on a rising slope at 1600 m altitude, the highest Vauban site. The citadel is used by the French Army and only accssible with a guided tour.
10. Tour Dorée (golden tower) in Camaret-sur-Mer - it is just a tower, the smallest of the Vauban sites. A nice tower, yes, but only a tower. The most remote Vauban site too (300 km from Mont-Saint-Michel).
11. Arras Citadel - a large citadel, with large, rather uninteresting buildings around a large courtyard. Certainly my shortest visit of all Vauban sites.
12. Longwy - very similar to other fortified towns, situated on a cliff in the low mountain range. Large parts of the fortifications were destroyed during the First World War. Does not add much important to the other Vauban sites.

I visited the twelve Vauban sites on a total of eight different trips, in a period of about twelve years. All Vauban sites can be properly visited in one day or less. I stayed twice in a Vauban site (Blaye, Besancon), but only because it fitted into my itinerary. I visited Neuf-Brisach more than once because I lived in nearby Freiburg/Germany (years before Vauban became a WHS), so I may be somewhat biased on this site.

I am not very enthusiastic about military achievements, but I have a fondness for architecture and civil engineering. And for beautiful locations. The Vauban Fortifications represent these qualities and although they may be not as glamorous as some other French WHS, I rate them rather high.