First published: 19/07/21.

Hubert 1.5

Plečnik's Ljubljana

Plečnik's Ljubljana (Inscribed)

Plečnik's Ljubljana by Hubert

When the Advisory Body Evaluations (ABE) of the 2020/2021 nominations were published a few weeks prior to the WHC meeting, I was surprised to see that Ljubljana received a clear positive recommendation from the ICOMOS experts. According to the ABE, inscription is justified because the architecture of Jože Plečnik transformed a provincial town of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire into a modern and prestigious capital.
However, ICOMOS also had some concerns. They considered that the proposed criterion (i) (a masterpiece of human creative genius) was not met. Thus, Ljubljana is very likely to be inscribed only under criterion (iv) (example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates a significant stage in human history). The name of the site also changed, from the rather epic "The timeless, humanistic architecture of Jože Plečnik" to "The works of Jože Plečnik in Ljubljana - Human Centred Urban Design". Not much of a difference, if you ask me. Still the name Jože Plečnik is included in the title of the WHS, which places Plečnik in a category with the Gaudi, Le Corbusier, Frank Llyod Wright and Victor Horta. And that, in my opinion, is not justified.

The topic of this WHS is urban planning and design. One would therefore expect a contiguous core zone in the city centre, illustrating the connections between historic structures and new or renewed components. But it is nominated as a serial site with seven locations, some of which are in the outskirts of the city. And the core zones basically only include the perimeter of the structures designed by Plečnik, without the context of the surrounding area.

The central component of this proposal is the two and a half kilometre long stretch along the Ljubljanica River from the stairs at Trnovski pristan in the south to the sluice gates in the northeast. Here Plečnik designed the waterfront promenade and several bridges. At Tromostovje ("Three Bridges") he transformed an old stone bridge into a fancy triple ensemble by adding two lateral bridges. Next to it is the covered Market Hall. The front on the river side is reminiscent of a Renaissance palace with its columns and oriels. I liked the area around the wide Cobbler's Bridge best, it is more of a square than just a bridge.
Adjacent to the river promenade is the complex of Kongresni Trg, Vegova Street and the National Library. No idea why the square and the street were included, but the library is probably Plečnik's most iconic building. Most striking is the red brick façade with inserted white stone blocks. The library is accessible during regular opening hours. The entrance hall made of black marble with its massive marble columns is worth a look inside.

Two components are close to the centre.
The Roman Wall was supposed to be demolished. Plečnik prevented this, added a passage and designed the area around it. The Trnovo Bridge is more of a forecourt for the parish church than a bridge, but the church is not included in the core zone.
The remaining three components are in the outskirts of Ljubljana: The Žale cemetery and two churches. However, not the whole cemetery is included, but only the entrance gate and the chapels. The entrance gate resembles a triumphal arch where Plečnik extensively indulged his passion for columns. A little too much, in my opinion.
The Church of St Francis is a bit chunky, again columns as decoration. I could not visit the interior, it was closed when I visited. I liked the Church of St Michael better, with its long staircase and the open bell tower (photo). The interior is mostly made of wood and has a rather plain design. The church is located in a rural area, not far from the two Slovenian pile dwelling sites. There is a bus stop right in front of it, so it seems easily accessible from the city centre.

I have not yet visited the Church of the Sacred Heart of Our Lady in Prague, which was originally included as a transnational nomination. From photos, however, I would rate it as more outstanding than the two churches in Ljubljana.
Plečnik's museum, his former home, is a good addition to the visit of this (T)WHS. The permanent exhibition is mainly focused on the buildings in Ljubljana. The museum is located close to the Trnovo Bridge.

Jože Plečnik was born in Ljubljana in the period the Austro-Hungarian Empire. He developed his architectural style at the beginning of the 20th century in Vienna and Prague. The buildings he designed in Ljubljana were built between the two world wars and are considered the highlights of his work. However, I have to say that this architecture is not my favourite style, too much decoration and too many columns, even where they make no sense. His architecture also differs significantly from the style of his teacher Otto Wagner and from his contemporaries such as Mies van de Rohe or Walter Gropius.
In my opinion, Plečnik’s architecture is more of national significance. Thus, a thumbs down from me.

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