Opinions on the Speyer Cathedral vary considerably: either a marvellous example of Romanesque architecture or a bare and austere interior without any spirit. I must admit that the atmosphere inside is quite chilly indeed, but I like very much Speyer and its cathedral. The sheer size of the building is striking and also the beautiful location: free-standing and surrounded by a park, the views are not obstructed by other buildings. But maybe I'm biased, because I was born and raised in the vicinity of Speyer. I visited the Cathedral with my parents and my school class, and even as an adult I often make a detour to Speyer when I am in the area.

The highlight of a visit is the wonderful crypt, it should not be missed (photo). It is considered the largest Romanesque columned hall, it extends under the entire transept and chancel. The plain interior and the two-tone arches lend it a spiritual atmosphere, that many visitors miss in the upper church. No doubt, it was in the crypt of the Speyer Cathedral where my fondness for Romanesque architecture has its origin.

The western façade dominates the views from the city. The westwork is a new construction from the 19th century, art historians do not consider it very important, but it has a wealth of sculptures and ornament. I would recommend an audioguide, the meaning of the sculptures and the building history of the Cathedral is explained in detail. However figural decoration is not typical Romanesque and I prefer the eastern view to the apsis (as shown in the photo of Ian's review below).

The plain interior of the cathedral is the result of the restoration in the 1950s when the most frescoes from the 19th century were removed, highly controversial among experts and often considered an inappropriate re-Romanization. The largest frescoes have been preserved and since 2012 they are shown in the 'Kaisersaal' in the westwork. The 'Kaisersaal' can only be visited with a guided tour (only April to October). Well, I like the plain walls better, but a good reason to join the tour is that afterwards you can climb the tower.

Undeniable is the historical significance. The construction was started in the 11th century when the Salian dynasty ruled over the Holy Roman Empire. It was a demonstration of political power that such a huge cathedral was built in this tiny town, Speyer had only 500 inhabitants at that time. So the Cathedral is also a symbol of the conflict between Papacy and Emperor, Investiture Controversy and Walk to Canossa are keywords for that period. Even today the Cathedral appears oversized for the small town.

When you're in Speyer you should also visit the mikveh and the remains of a medieval synagogue, just 200 meters from the cathedral. Both are parts of the tentative site “ShUM cities”. And for refreshment I recommend the Hausbrauerei Domhof with a lovely beergarden.