First published: 25/02/15.

Hubert 2.5

Spissky Hrad And Levoca

Spissky Hrad and Levoca (Inscribed)

Spissky Hrad and Levoca by Hubert

Without a doubt, Spissky hrad is a spectacular sight, the castle built of white travertine and towering on a green hill is a popular photo subject from every side and angle. But in fact, the view of the castle is the best part of the visit. The photo shows the view from Spissky Kapitula in the morning when the fog was clearing.

The castle is a large complex with several courtyards on the terraced grounds. I can imagine that in former times the fortifications were deterrent and impregnable. Today the castle is in ruins, it was destroyed by a fire in the 18th century and only parts of the central area are accessible. There is a museum and a chapel, both not very exciting, instruments of torture, arms and armour are shown. A model in the museum gives an idea of the former splendour of Spis Castle. You get a good view of the structure of the castle and the Spis landscape from the castle tower. We laughed when we saw the warning on the door of the tower: "Pay Attention! Flying Ants!", but it was absolutely justified, at least during our visit in August.

From the tower you can see the diocesan town Spisska Kapitula on the opposite hill. This WHS is also a symbol of the interdependencies of secular and ecclesiastical power in the Middle Ages. The hill of Spisska Kapitula is lower than the castle hill, but certainly the religious authority was not less powerful. The St. Martin's Cathedral is the main sight of the small fortified town, it can only be visited with a guided tour (hourly in summer, takes about 30 min). The interior has several carved altarpieces, but you don't miss much if you skip a visit.

We stayed in Levoca in a hotel on the main square (Hotel U Leva), that was a good choice, Levoca is a lively town, there are several restaurants and cafés on the main square where you can sit outside. It was a pleasant change to Bardejov which we visited the day before. The main square is dominated by the Old Town Hall and the Cathedral St James. The Town Hall is a fancy construction with two-storey arcades and high gables, the 'Cage of Shame' in front of the building is noteworthy. The cathedral has an impressive collection of sacral art, about a dozen altarpieces, most famously the magnificent Gothic altar by the woodcarver Master Paul of Levoca. But again, the cathedral is only accessible with a guided tour (seems to be common in Slovakia). The small museum in the former home of Master Paul shows faithful replica of his major works and you can take a close look at the expressive faces of the carved figures.

All in all it was an enjoyable visit, the WHS has enough to entertain a visitor for one or two days.

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