First published: 13/02/24.

Hubert 0

The Palaces Of King Ludwig Ii

The Palaces of King Ludwig II (Nominated)

The Palaces of King Ludwig II by Hubert

It seems I'm going to be the party pooper here with my "thumbs down". But now that Palaces of King Ludwig II have been nominated for decision in 2025, one critical view may be appropriate. The nomination was controversial among the local population. In a ballot in the municipality of Schwangau in June 2023, 56% of citizens voted in favour of the nomination (with a turnout of 56%), so not really overwhelming. The residents near Neuschwanstein are mainly concerned about a further increase in visitor numbers. Those in favour of the nomination argue that the number is already 1.5 million per year and that more can hardly be expected.

King Ludwig II of Bavaria is well-known far beyond the Bavarian borders, romanticised as the "Fairytale King", his castles attract visitors from all over the world. He was undoubtedly a fascinating character. His idea of kingship was based on absolutism and the divine rights of kings. But this conflicted with political reality, which saw a change towards a constitutional monarchy. And thus, he dreamed himself back to the past times of Louis XIV and the fictional worlds of Richard Wagner.
In a way, his life reflects this period of political and social change. But does this also mean that his architectural heritage - the Dreams in Stone - is of such outstanding value that it justifies inscription on the World Heritage List?

I have visited three of the four locations twice. First as a child decades ago, then a second time after they appeared on the Tentative List in 2015 (my visits were between 2016 and 2018). As a child, I loved these places, but as an adult who has already visited many castles and palaces on the list, my enthusiasm was much weaker.
Of the three castles, I enjoyed my visit to Linderhof the most. The palace and the park are a quirky mixture of different architectural styles: Baroque and Rococo with Romantic and Alpine motifs, a Moorish pavilion and an Alpine hut and much more. The most famous building is probably the Venus Grotto based on a scene from Richard Wagner's Tannhäuser opera. Linderhof is inspired by Louis XIV and his Maisons de Plaisance (Lustschloss). And it is the only one of the three buildings that was completed during the lifetime of Ludwig II.
I did not visit the Königshaus Schachen. It is a mixture of villa and mountain hut, picturesquely located at almost 1900 metres above sea level. Tourists can only reach it on foot, via what is today known as the "Königsweg", about 3 hours one way.
Herrenchiemsee is a homage to Louis XIV, the front of the palace is a replica of the main façade of Versailles. However, in my opinion the palace with its gardens is only a poor copy of the original. The one near Paris is clearly the better Versailles. The best part was the unfinished north staircase, where you can see the bare brickwork that is otherwise hidden under magnificent decorations.
And finally, the well-known Neuschwanstein Castle, you don't need many words to describe. Even in late November, when I visited it, we had to wait 2 hours for our guided tour to start, which only lasted 45 minutes because only part of the rooms has been completed. My photo shows the view from the castle to the picturesque Alpsee and Hohenschwangau Castle, where Ludwig II spent his childhood.
All of these sites have a wonderful location in common. And that they were built with the most modern technology of the time. There are flush toilets, for example, or "Tischlein deck dich", retractable tables that enabled the king to have his meals without contact with his servants.

But in the end, these palaces are just a strange blend of styles and ideas. This mixture can be entertaining (Linderhof) or rather boring (Herrenchiemsee). The palaces can also be considered the best examples of Historicism, typical of the late 19th century. But I doubt that this architectural style is of such outstanding value beyond the German-speaking area. Or that they are "masterpieces of human creativity" (criterion I), as claimed in the justification on the Tentative list.
However, the justification goes far beyond the architectural value. The T-list entry reads that the palaces "provide a unique insight into an important cultural phenomenon of the 19th century: the spectacular scenic displays at the world exhibitions" (criterion III). Ludwig II was a big fan of the world exhibitions, and two of the buildings in Linderhof, the Moorish Pavilion and the Moroccan House, were originally built for these events. But is that enough?
And it continues that the palaces are "a synthesis of the arts recreating past eras and far-distant places: paradise on earth, a topic that dominated the 19th century" (criterion iv) and "manifestations of European intellectual history from the Middle Ages to the second half of 19th century" (criterion vi). A little overblown, if you ask me. But we'll have to wait and see whether the comparative analysis convinces ICOMOS and the WHC.

Of course, Neuschwanstein Castle is iconic, a part of our pop culture, shaping our idea of castles and knights and the Middle Ages. Maybe that and its worldwide fame is enough. I wouldn't mind if Neuschwanstein Castle ended up on the World Heritage List as a single site. After all, there are much weaker German sites that have made it on the list without any objections (not a good justification, of course). But in its current form as a serial site and with the justification given, it is a "thumbs down" from me.

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