Toledo was the World Heritage site I was most looking forward to before I left for my trip through central Spain in May 2019. And I was not disappointed. Toledo is an intriguing city. Three religions have left their mark in the old town. Christians, Muslims and Jews lived here together more or less peacefully for centuries, until 1492. A Gothic cathedral, numerous other Christian churches, a former mosque and two former synagogues can be found close to each other. The city's architectural ensemble has remained almost unchanged over the last five centuries.

I started my visit at the Mirardor del Valle, south of the city on the opposite bank of the Tagus River. From there, you have a magnificent view of the rocky plateau on which Toledo is located and the meander of the Tagus River. And you can imagine the labyrinth of alleys in which you will inevitably get lost later. It is easy to get to by car and you can also stop at other viewpoints, but the Mirardor del Valle is the best view. On foot, it is a short hike uphill, but definitely worth the effort.
The main access to the old town is via the Puente de Alcantara or alternatively through the Puerta Bisagra. This was the case in the Middle Ages and is still the case for most tourists today. The train station is close by and there are also large car parks. No matter which route you choose, it is always a steep climb uphill to reach the old town.
I had accommodation southwest of the old town and entered the core zone of the WHS via the Puente de San Martin, quasi the back entrance to the old town. But it is actually the more beautiful of the two bridges. The first historic building you come to on this route is the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. It is a fine example of the mix of Gothic and Mudejar styles often found in Toledo, particularly the two-storey cloister. Chains are attached to the outer walls, allegedly from Christian slaves freed from Moorish captivity.
The must-see sites have already been highlighted by other reviewers: the Catedral de Santa María, the Synagogue of El Tránsito (now a museum) and the former Hospital de Santa Cruz with its beautiful courtyard and staircase. The real highlight, however, is strolling through the narrow and winding alleys.

When visiting sites like Toledo, I also look forward to worthwhile non-WHS add-ons. In Toledo, it was El Greco. The artist lived in Toledo for almost forty years until his death in 1614. His expressionist style and rich colours were unusual for the time, but give the characters and scenes in his paintings a special dramatic quality. And it still looks modern today.

There are seven sites in Toledo with paintings by El Greco:

• In the Iglesia Santo Tomé you can admire the painting Burial of the Count of Orgaz. Derived solely from its popularity with tourists, it would be El Greco's most famous painting. For an entrance fee and under a strict ban on photography, visitors are allowed to crowd in front of the painting for a short time. The painting is great, but the conditions are annoying.
• The Sacristy of Santa Maria Cathedral exhibits works from the cathedral's collection, including some El Greco paintings such as the altarpiece The Disrobing of Christ.
• The El Greco Museum mainly shows works from the late phase, including a complete series of Christ and the Apostles.
• The previously mentioned Hospital de Santa Cruz houses the regional museum of the Province of Toledo and displays several paintings by El Greco.
• The altar of the Monastery of Santo Domingo el Antiguo was his first major commission in Toledo. However, only some original paintings remained there, the largest altarpieces are today in other museums and have been replaced by replica. El Greco's (empty) zinc coffin is also in the monastery.
• The church of Hospital de Tavera was his last and unfinished major project. One painting of the altar remained in the church. The Hospital of Tavera is located in the lower town at Puerta Bisagra (still in the core zone of the WHS) and can only be visited with a guided tour. I missed the last tour that day but the friendly staff let me visit the church.
• Finally, the Capilla de San José has an altarpiece by El Greco. The chapel was closed on the day of my visit.

I spent two days in Toledo, and that is not too much for a visit to this magnificent World Heritage site.