I’ll admit it; this was the site in the South West that I was visiting purely because I was in the area rather than because I had a strong desire to see it. Well I’m happy to report giving it such a low billing was entirely wrong, the magnificent ruins here were a distinct highlight of the region.
I wasn’t expecting the ruins to be so extensive, so large or of such eminence; the brick work really is astounding. The quality of the remains far out-strips even the high points of Mesa Verde, reflecting that this canyon was the centre of a civilisation as testified by it being the hub of a unique road system. Like Els, we picked up the really handy booklets at the start of each trail which provided a wealth of information.
The distinct highlight was Pueblo Bonito, which is a complex hive of rooms and inter-locking kivas. There was something so compelling about the settlement; it was endlessly intriguing trying to puzzle out the relationship between the different structures. And being able to duck off and get lost in the maze of rooms really brought out the little boy in me. Though this was the highlight, the other groups of ruins were also well worth the time to explore and the trails of Petroglyphs bought yet another aspect to this wonderful site.
We spent the night before our visit at the little ‘town’ of Cuba in the friendly Frontier Motel (if you want an authentic US motel experience look no further). After a diner breakfast of one of my new favourite dishes Huevos Rancheros we set off. Part of the fun of the site is getting there; the bumpy dirt track from the main road was rather entertaining to drive on, even if I did wonder about the well-being of our little car. After bumping back to the highway we headed off for a rather tasty meal and even tastier IPA at the recommended Three Rivers Brewery in Farmington.
I really enjoyed this visit; the experience of the trip made it even better. From bumping across dirt roads to exploring a corner of the US that doesn't feature on many must-see lists. However it is the sheer quality of the masonry and the complex nature of the ruins that really make this place stand out as a great World Heritage Site.