First published: 01/05/05.

Ian Cade 2.5

Flemish Béguinages

Flemish Béguinages (Inscribed)

Flemish Béguinages by Ian Cade

Having travelled pretty extensively in Flanders, I have managed to see quite a few Begijnhofs. The most impressive one I have seen so far is the Groot Begijnhof of Leuven. It is quite large and the quiet winding cobbled streets and redbrick houses are a lovely place to wander, especially if you are recovering from a long night in this superb cities student bars.

Whilst visiting friends in Gent I wandered around for a morning visiting the Begijnhofs there. Both of the inscribed areas were quiet refuges and displayed all the hallmarks associated with this style of urban planning. Sint-Amandsberg was a longish walk from the centre however it was very large and was the last example to be built. Walking around it was nice to see that it was still fully inhabited; there were lots of children being dropped off by their parents at one house which was decorated by balloons.

One of the most charming examples was in Kortrijk. This walled community is tucked just behind the main market square but it feels incredibly serene. In here there is a small museum dedicated to the lives of the beguines, and also one of the houses is now a guest house, offering perhaps the only opportunity for a short term stay for the casual tourist.

Even the Begijnhof in Brugge is calm in comparison to the rest of the tourist bustle of the city. This is where the real charm of the Begijnhofs lies; they are exceptionally well preserved examples of Western European urban planning. Whilst there are many other instances of this in other cities in the area, a lot of them are overexploited. However in these little pockets of Flemish towns and cities everyday life still continues, without a lace shop or waffle stand to spoil the ambience.

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