From reading the other reviews it seems there is a bit of a split in people’s views of this shrine. I will say I am in the baffled camp. It is a pretty austere site to get a grip on.
Essentially it is a walled park with two large rectangular courtyards lined with bulky wooden buildings fronted with closed doors on one side. It isn’t really an easily accessible site, which is why I was glad to see that access to this site is now by guided tour only (about every 2 hours in English). I think this is actually good as the guide was able to try and make some sense of the Confucian concepts behind the function of the shrine. That being said; I don’t think I have ever seen people look as bored as many did on my tour. It wasn’t the fault of the guide who did a sterling job considering how alien the concepts can be to many westerners.
I was sort of looking forward to seeing the architecture of the site. I am a big fan of the modern architect Mies van der Rohe who is famous for stating “Less is more”; as such I have a fairly high tolerance for buildings that others may see as monotonous, but however hard I tried I still didn’t get much from the structures, and perhaps that would be missing the point anyway.
The site does tie in well with Seoul’s other World Heritage Sites as they cover the places where the kings lived, were buried and Jongmyo is where their souls rest.
Also just to pick up on Rob’s point below; Korea’s attitude to entrance fees really should be commended. If there is any cost it tends to be in the ‘nominal’ category, and here was no different (€0.80 entry and tour).
The shrine is right next to Changdeokgung another WHS, and just a short stroll form the antique shops and tea rooms of Insadong (my recommendation is Sin Yetchatjip/ Old Teashop where you can enjoy your cuppa in the company of some inquisitive finches that fly around the knick-knacks inside).
It think it won't be the most understandable of sites for many that are not up on Confucian ideas, I am glad that I visited it but I enjoyed my tea with the curious birds a little more.